Exercise Atlantic Quest 23

By Joe Robertson

We arrived in the cold, wet, dark of the Falkland Islands in early September, courtesy of the RAF, after four years of planning and training.

This would be the fourth leg of Exercise Atlantic Quest 23. Since June, three Royal Engineer regiments had taken turns sailing a yacht from the UK across the Atlantic, down the coast of S America, and were now making their way here. We would sail to South Georgia, a tiny mountainous island in the South Atlantic within the Antarctic convergence zone, known for its atrocious weather, and conduct four weeks of exploratory mountaineering.

During our passage out the seas and weather were kind, which was fortunate given the novice status of two thirds of the crew. After six days we reached South Georgia at King Edward Point (KEP) on 30 September. After a day’s rest and kit preparation we took to the hills to stretch our legs, try out our snowshoes (not all climbers were strong skiers so skis were not taken), and just enjoy not being on a yacht. Teams summited two local peaks, Mt Hodges (605m) and Orca Peak (395m).

Our first major foray saw us exploring an area home to Quad 5, Marakoppa, Mount Fagerli and Paulsen Peak, all around 1500m and believed to be unclimbed. Teams attempted these peaks in 2003 and 2005 from the ENE so we opted to land at the end of Mercer Bay and attempt them directly from the N. Sadly, after a number of hours of pulling pulks over steep scree and mushy snow, we encountered a section of steep frozen scree slush which we couldn’t ascend or bypass. After some deliberation we sheepishly called for the yacht to move us to the other side of the bay, to camp on the beach, regroup and rethink.

We decided that the group would split. Three teams would establish a high camp on the glacier and follow the same route as previous expeditions, while the fourth attempted small peaks from the beach camp before a journey back to KEP on foot. The next day consisted of taking turns or working as camp. The fourth group made our believed first ascent (F/A); a minor peak overlooking our camp which we hope to name “Pebble Peak”.

After a night on the glacier, we quested up towards the col early in the morning. We found the crossing easy enough (Scottish I) and began to make our way down the other side. Sadly, the second half of the gulley was a horrible scree- and rock-filled chute devoid of snow with a loose rocky step at the bottom. We concluded we could get down it but were unsure of our ability to get back up it without leaving a rope in place, let alone safely with the forecasted high temperatures, and certainly not if we had a casualty (a dramatic consideration but with no Search and Rescue available, a pertinent one). With heavy hearts, we returned to the valley floor. Rather than waste the whole day, one team headed up Waller Peak which was a small but enjoyable climb comprising an easy snow ascent and a mixed rocky finish, while other teams made abortive attempts on another unnamed minor summit.

Our second landing, at Hamilton Bay, was far more straightforward. Following a short haul with our loads on our backs we were on the Salomon Glacier proper, pulling our pulks towards the campsite where we would spend the next three days. Our intent was to have a speculative look at three unclimbed peaks. The first was Douglas Crag, which has an intimidating E face that would host a hundred classic lines if it were in Chamonix. Further inland were Mt Macklin (1900m) and Pt 2229. After establishing a campsite we quickly realised that Pt 2229, appearing like a mountain lifted from the Karakoram and dumped in the South Atlantic Ocean, was unlikely to be a goer on this occasion. Mt Macklin looked challenging but not impossible, and there was a clear line up the NE face. The N ridge of Douglas Crag had become visible on the walk in.

Early the following morning, three teams set off. One made a successful F/A of Douglas Crag (1684m) in a 15hr round trip. The climb consisted of 450m of Scottish I/II climbed together, and pitching sections of III up the face and a rocky ridge of gendarmes and slabs, with moves up to French 3c/4a (which felt hard in crampons and on wet rock!). The first top was a false summit, as was the second. To reach the third we had to drop down twice onto the NW face, following snow scoops and broken ground. The climb completed, we descended a gully previously unseen on the NW face to the valley bottom at I/II.

The second group, having exchanged pt 2229 for another unnamed summit, turned back early in a complex crevasse field made worse by high temperatures, but did make a believed F/A of a small peak nearby which they dubbed “Rodeo Peak”. The third attempted Mt Macklin. In a 28hr effort, having climbed the NE face at I/II they reached their high point (1616m) at 16.00. Frustratingly close to the summit (approx 150m vertical) their way was blocked by a gendarme of technical mixed climbing so they chose to descend. Reaching the valley bottom in the dark, rather than crossing the glacier they dug a snow hole and spent an uncomfortable night before continuing. Returning to camp the following morning they were met halfway by the other teams bearing hot brews and snacks.

The rest of that day was spent attempting small peaks. One team summited a distinct point that they will call “Winged Peak” following confirmation. Two more teams attempted a fine-looking tower of rock on the NE chain overlooking the Salomon glacier. Although unsuccessful, the final summit tower being too demanding for us in big boots, it remained a pleasant day out, with rock quality far surpassing anything we had encountered so far.

Joe On tower - by Simon Powderham

King Edward Point - by Adrian Mellor

Camping near Sheridan Peak - by Matt Williams

Salomon glacier - by Dan Bergman

Return whence you came