by Nathan Rhind

On a miserable, wet Scottish evening, I found myself captivated by a short film showcasing Moroccan mountaineers winter climbing in the Atlas Mountains - a relatively unexplored climbing destination [www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJwP62_Zcfw]. The allure of fantastic routes, somewhat reminiscent of my native Scotland but with a much greater likelihood of blue skies and the chance to immerse myself in a different culture, greatly appealed. My girlfriend Emma took little convincing and we quickly booked budget flights from Edinburgh to Marrakech.

The High Atlas of Morocco stretches eastward from the Atlantic Coast, acting as a natural barrier between the Sahara to the south and the Mediterranean to the north. Among its several 4000m peaks, Toubkal reigns the tallest at 4167m, also being the highest point in North Africa. Initially, we aimed to explore lesser-known winter routes but encountered an almost immediate challenge – booking mountain huts proved difficult. The access situation for unguided oreigners seemed uncertain, prompting us to ponder seeking the assistance of a local guide. I have benefited greatly from professional skills courses and was reluctant to be guided, fearing it might detract from the adventure of the whole thing. More significantly, Moroccan guides are generally not as technical as we would be used to in the UK, and using a guide would mean forgoing our more technical ambitions and leaving the ropes at home.

Emma pointed out that we would not be climbing at all if we could not pass the security checkpoints. With time running out she contacted Abdul, a local guide who lived in the area and had a wealth of connections. Together we tentatively planned an itinerary including a two-night stay at Refuge du Toubkal, and ascents of Toubkal as well as two other “4000ers” Ras Ouanoukrim, and Timzguida. Although less technically challenging than our initial plans, this choice allowed us time to take in the culture and mountain villages better. Ultimately, we had a fantastic time, learning so much and forming a friendship with Abdul with whom we have remained in contact since.

Arriving in Marrakech felt surreal after an extended hiatus from international travel. Riding a taxi weaving through chaotic and densely packed traffic – consisting of everything from donkey-drawn carts to luxury cars – presented a stark contrast to my daily commute. Our night in Marrakech flew by, and the next morning we arranged a taxi to Imlil, a beautiful village at the foot of the mountains. Almost every shop in Imlil offered a variety of used mountaineering gear, which we learned was often left behind by previous visitors. It was in Imlil that we met Abdul, and together, we passed the police checkpoint and ascended towards Refuge du Toubkal, a six-hour journey (with fresh-squeezed orange juice breaks).

En route we met a party hastily transporting a casualty downhill on a makeshift stretcher; suffice to say the casualty did not appear to be having an enjoyable time. Abdul explained the absence of formal mountain rescue in the area, and how guides would team up as and when needed and do their best to effect rescues. I understand the situation may be changing now, but it presented a stark contrast to home - highlighting the superb systems in place in the UK.

The mountain hut, affiliated with the French Alpine Club, operates similarly to alpine huts, albeit offering a budget-friendly half-board night at around €25. A dinner of tagine and cous-cous, accompanied by traditional Moroccan mint tea, marked the end of our first day. The mint tea was something we had very frequently on the trip, and is a real tradition of the area which many of the locals are really passionate about - definitely worth trying.

Our pre-dawn start the following morning led us south towards Ras Ouanoukrim, tracing a ridge with breathtaking views of the contrasting desert and mountain landscapes to the south and north. Descending through an easy-angled couloir added interest to our journey and a glimpse of the alpine potential of the area. We returned to the refuge by 13.00 and were spared from the intense afternoon heat, which would have made rockfalls and avalanche a real concern. Despite Emma and me stripping down to t-shirts from full-on insulated jackets as the morning had progressed Abdul, seemingly immune to the changing temperatures, retained his layered attire throughout the day.

The next morning, we set out for Toubkal via its South Col route, treated to a mesmerizing sunrise from Tizi ‘n Toubkal. The summit, while feeling cold at -10º in comparison to the heat of the Moroccan days, rewarded us with beautiful panoramic views. After descending and enjoying another tea and tagine break, we headed back to Imlil. Abdul invited us to his family home for a mezze dinner, creating a really special conclusion to our time with him.

The last couple of days in Morocco were spent exploring Marrakech, a fascinating city which is definitely worth spending some time in. The House of Photography, which displays hundreds of photographs of the city, mountains and Berber people from the introduction of photography onwards, was an unexpected highlight. The main square, Jemaa el Fnaa, was also a fantastic (and sometimes surreal) experience, and it changes throughout the day as the sellers and mood of the place go from market to social and dining space.

We had a fantastic time in the Atlas, and definitely plan to return now that we are familiar with the area. Beyond the mountains surrounding Toubkal, M’Goun (4071m) appears to offer a fantastic mountain journey, and there is still the draw of relatively unexplored winter climbing lines throughout the range for the bold and adventurous.

[This article echoes Eleanor Lampard’s equally enthusiastic account of climbing in Morocco (NL240). Clearly an attractive destination! – ed]

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