High Peaks in the Berner Oberland

by Lynne Mason

After completing a successful one-week AAC(UK) tour based in Kandersteg with leader Tom Litchfield, our group of two decided to push on from Kandersteg to Grindelwald in the Berner Oberland.

Day 1

Oeschinensee top gondola station (1680m) via Blüemlisalphütte (2840m) to Gspaltenhornhütte (2455m). [8hrs, 14.8km, 1760m ascent, 980m descent.]

After our last night in Kandersteg we took the earliest morning gondola from Kandersteg to Oeschinensee, an incredible blue glacial lake in a valley above Kandersteg. Continuing up to Blüemlisalp we passed a friendly Ibex herd of females and young, and reached Blüemlisalphütte for a late lunch. Being 29 September it was late in the season so the hut was open for food only, no overnighting. From the pass the path descends very steeply towards Griesalp, then turns up to Gspaltenhornhütte. The longer, gentler Moränenweg (moraine path) heads to the bottom of the glacier, followed by a bridge over remarkable water-formed chasms and canyons. Reaching the hut around 17.00, being a Friday night we found that the hut was full of celebrating Swiss locals, most of whom had come up from Griesalp. A more relaxed tour would include a night at Blüemlisalphütte.

Day 2

Gspaltenhornhütte via Sefinenfurgge pass (2612m) to Berggasthaus Tschingelhorn (1678m). [8.5hrs, 18.3km, 1000m ascent, 1820m descent.]

After a spectacular setting moon in the morning around 07.30 we headed to Sefinenfurgge pass, getting there around 09.00. With low cloud in the valley obscuring Mürren below, the mountain peaks looked like islands in the clouds. Going down towards Mürren we had clear views of Schilthorn top cable station (the Piz Gloria of George Lazenby’s only James Bond film), initially looking down on it until we eventually got closer and lower. By the time we passed Rotstockhütte (2039m) the mist had all been burned off by the sun. Closer to Mürren the path got busier, but we turned down to Gimmelwald (1367m), a small, delightful historical village with some accommodation and restaurants, but no shop, so don’t expect to stock up on snacks. There was only one unattended souvenir shop with traditional crafts so we put coins in the honesty box in exchange for a cold, sugary, caffeinated pick-me-up (make sure to carry some cash and enough small change!).

Heading towards Stechelberg we crossed the river (Sefinen Lütschine - waterfalls everywhere) then followed an enchanting “Lord of the Rings” style forest path (lots f tree roots underfoot) up the valley to Berggasthaus Tschingelhorn, arriving around 15.30 where we met a friend for the night. The Gasthaus has a fat little resident pet goat called Pippi-Lotti with 2 goat kids; she was more like a dog than a goat, loving scratches and cuddles!

Because it was 30 September it was the final night before closing for the winter, and the hut was full of family and friends, so we were treated to live traditional Swiss music including accordions and yodelling. Other options would be to stay over at Rotstockhütte, or explore Murren and stay there, or stay in Gimmelwald where there looked to be a nice hostel.

Day 3

Berggasthaus Tschingelhorn via Oberhornsee (2065m) to Stechelberg (922m). [5hrs, 11.5km, 430m ascent, 1170m descent.]

This morning we went up the valley, passing Berghotel Obersteinberg (another delightful accommodation option) and many spectacular waterfalls, to a small glacial lake called Oberhornsee. Being a weekend, many local Swiss walked up to one of these hotels for the night, both only accessible by walking, often bringing their children. From Oberhornsee we descended the valley, following the river to Stechelberg for a late lunch.

Our friend gave us a lift to Lauterbrunnen station, which felt rather crowded after the solitude of the mountains, and from there we took the train to Kleine Scheidegg. The train was packed, but the package tourists got off in Wengen. In Kleine Scheidegg we stayed at the Hotel Grindelwaldblick, which, as per its name, has an uninterrupted view across to Grindelwald, and we also had a perfect view of the north face of the Eiger from our bedroom window!

Day 4

Kleine Scheidegg (2061m) to Jungfraujoch (3463m)

From Kleine Scheidegg we walked up to the lower station of the Jungfraujoch train (1hr). From here the train goes through a tunnel inside the Eiger to the top station which lies between the Jungfrau and the Mönch, for spectacular glacier and peak views. It stops briefly inside the mountain for travellers to disembark and take in the views through windows cut into the mountain face [another film reference, the Eiger Sanction with Clint Eastwood – ed]. Once on top we took a one-hour walk on the glacier to Mönchsjochhütte (3657m), the highest serviced hut in Switzerland. The snowy path across the glacier was “prepared”, similar to a ski-slope piste, so normal hiking boots and walking poles were adequate, however this path is weather-dependent and only open during good weather. The museums back at the Jungfraujoch terminal proved to be excellent (this is Switzerland after all) and we returned on the last train in the early evening.

We spent the night back in Kleine Scheidegg at the hotel in the railway station building. At the evening meal, the hotel was visited by a charming wild fox who visits the staff every evening for scraps once all the tourist hordes have left.

Day 5

Kleine Scheidegg to Berghaus Baregg (1775m). [5.3hrs, 13.6km, 780m ascent, 1120m descent.]

Today we again walked up to the lower station of the Jungfraujoch train, then across the bottom of the north face of the Eiger above Grindelwald. We even managed to find the windows in the rock halfway up the mountain face where the train stops briefly inside the mountain for views. The Eiger trail contours and meanders through pleasant forests to drop down quite low above Grindelwald, to cross the river by bridge. We then headed up the next valley to Berghaus Baregg which has a terrace with fantastic glacier views. We could have gone further to chreckhornhütte (2529m) but it was closed for the season by then.

Day 6:

Berghaus Baregg to Grindelwald.

After a relaxed start we walked down the mountain to the cableway (1.25hrs) and took it down to Grindelwald, bought some very expensive new hiking boots (mine were worn out) then to the station and on the train to Zermatt for our next adventure!

Left: Baregg and Right: Jungfraujoch

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