Book review

Walking in the Picos de Europa
by Robin Walker

Cicerone Press, 2023 ISBN 978-1852845360

The Picos de Europa is the highest part of the Cantabrian Cordillera, a range of limestone mountains that runs along the north coast of Spain. The Picos are split into three massifs by deeply incised gorges, the most celebrated of which is The Cares Gorge. I first visited the Picos in 1977 on a caving expedition and fell in love with them. I have been going back for walking and climbing holidays ever since. The walking and scenery are outstanding, so I can safely say that if you visit for walking or climbing you are very unlikely to be disappointed and more likely to be very impressed.

In 1989 Cicerone published the first English language climbing guide to the area, written by Robin Walker. It was unusual because it had both detailed descriptions of rock climbs and an equal selection of walks. We loved it, and still do. What was really needed, though, was a guidebook solely dedicated to walking, with a coverage across the geographical range and including walks from valley strolls to high mountain expeditions. Here it is.

The book starts with a detailed introduction and all the practical information you might need. Much of this is specific to the Picos and so very valuable. If you go, pay particular attention to the warnings about the scarcity of water in the mountains - it is all underground in the caves! I have on more than one occasion met walkers who have been driven delirious with thirst, having set off expecting to find streams to drink from. The walks do indeed cover the whole geographical range and there are valley, mid-height, and high mountain routes. For each one there is a box summarising the important route statistics, then a paragraph about the nature of the terrain followed by a map and description. There are also boxes with snippets of history, local information about the unusual types of buildings encountered or the famous blue cheese etc. It is worth going through the book reading all of these because you will meet many of the features mentioned on more than one of the walks.

Many of the classic walks are covered, but also more unusual routes and those designed to allow you to see important features of the area. The author lives near to the Picos and has done so for more than forty years, so he has extensive local knowledge. The book finishes with four short treks which allow you to explore the three massifs in more detail or link them together for a longer excursion. There are useful appendices, including one on the network of huts which, if you plan carefully and book ahead, means you don’t need to carry a tent. The huts are open until the end of October.

The book is presented to the usual high standard by Cicerone, is small and light enough to carry with you and is an essential companion to any holiday in the area. Thoroughly recommended.
Ken Daykin

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