Übungsleiter Bergwandern Course

by Sean Macken

Our adventure started in Trins in the Wipptal, not far south of Innsbruck, with an interesting cast of characters.

First to arrive at Hotel Zita was Hannah from Leeds, fit, accomplished and very smart, with a master’s in engineering - a qualified ski-instructor. Next, late at night, came Jude and Sean; Jude, from Manchester, a teacher and part-time tourist guide, fit and very organised. Sean, from Dublin, had been alpine walking for ten years, country walking for longer, age still undetermined at tour end. The following morning, after breakfast, Joeri from Aarschot in Belgium breezed in, genial and very alert, a natural team leader. Last of the trainees was Beatrix from Scharten in Upper Austria, tall, extrovert, much travelled, great fun, walks with no trouble in bare feet on stony ground. Course leader Bernhard then came in: highly qualified and committed in all aspects of mountain experience. The following day we met George: medical specialist, instructor in mountain rescue, calm and courageous he plunged fully clothed into a cold mountain stream in simulation of rescue from water. Throughout the week we were looked after by Sandra of Hotel Zita, gracious and attentive, with the occasional help of her children.

The course consisted of five 12hr days, early start, and day spent outdoors, continuing after dinner with presentations by Bernhard and George and discussions on all aspects of the mountain challenges. Bernhard’s own training and profession from an early age was, I surmise, with the military! One consistent theme was that the mountains are dangerous places and every aspect of tour leadership needs to take that into account. Planning needs to be good so that difficulties are anticipated, and realistic goals for each day’s trek are proposed. Map reading must be effective so that the trek stays on course, knowing one’s location and direction at all times. Bernhard emphasised the importance of being aware and receiving information from multiple sources: map, position of sun, landscape, GPS device, thereby confirming position and direction. Reliance on only one information source can lead to error. A map can be wrong or incomplete, a compass can malfunction. Bernhard also emphasised that his own planning philosophy was for an early start and to be done with the day’s trek at 15.00 and off the mountain. Weather and conditions can complicate matters and it seems best to plan for what is definitely achievable, both in terms of time, personal ability and stamina. Bernhard also emphasised that there should be no question of attempting to go near one’s own endurance limit or for a leader to make such a demand on others. Investigation and conversation are superior to assumption and presumption.

The GPS app “Outdoor Active” was demonstrated as very useful in displaying the map, quickly pin-pointing location on the mountain, and having its own compass, confirming reading of analogue compass. While such devices are very useful it was pointed out that one should not be constantly looking at one’s mobile phone. Observing one’s surroundings and the ground ahead while walking is essential. The usefulness of phone app SOS EU ALP was also demonstrated. In an emergency situation where help is needed, activating the app not only contacts the emergency services but automatically communicates one’s phone number and precise map co-ordinates.

Emergency procedures
There were practical exercises on the mountain. Very valuable to know exactly what to do in the event of an accident resulting in injury: assessing the safety of the location, how to talk to the injured person, assess the injury, resuscitate a person not breathing, contact emergency services if necessary. A video was shown in the hotel in the evening where victim fell into a river, clambered out the far side and his would-be rescuers panicked and all fell into the river too. Real life incident also recounted where trained A&E staff in a hospital, presented with a patient not breathing, became confused (pressure of work?) and had to call for help, forgetting that the first thing is to tilt back the head to free air passage, and apply chest compressions.

Communication
Communication in its various aspects came up. It was agreed that prior to the Übungsleiter course it would have been advantageous to have all the information and arrangements pertaining to the course perhaps three months in advance. To that end a comprehensive information leaflet should be prepared by AAC(UK), ready for transmission to participants together with the equipment list, three months in advance. Communication was also demonstrated to be essential while on each day’s trek, with the stage leader regularly, if briefly, stopping to check that everyone behind was OK, especially on a climb. This was also demonstrated to be essential at the top of an arduous ascent; an enquiry by the leader of each person about his/her state of breathing, energy, muscles, morale; are they fit for the descent, with supplies of water and energy snacks.

Rate of Progress
Alpine walkers regularly see the signposts pointing to this or that destination with a walking time displayed. Bernhard was positive that these estimated times are too optimistic and not to be accepted; good advice from a professional! Better far to use Naismith’s Formula in planning: 15 minutes for every kilometre (4km/hr) of horizontal distance (in good walking conditions), plus 10 minutes for every 100 metres of ascent. Naismith’s formula can be adapted when estimating for more difficult conditions where, for example, 2km/hr or even less, could be more realistic. Bernhard was emphatic that on a very steep ascent (not Klettersteig) a slow pace of around seven steps every ten seconds is optimal; it gives steady progress, conserves energy and minimises time needed for rest breaks. That’s about 2.4km/hr, perhaps slightly less.

A strip of snow
At about 1500m we were confronted by a strip of snow, lying in a steeply descending (20 degreesor so) gully, extending downwards for around 0.5km. Crossing such an innocent looking snow strip was the challenge. “That”, we were informed, “is dangerous”. When stepping out to cross, each step should be a kick into the snow that embeds your foot in the snow. If you slip when crossing and begin to slide downwards you need a technique for arresting your slide, otherwise your slide can take you all the way to the bottom, at increasing speed. The trick is to twist onto your stomach and use elbows, fingers (gloved preferably), knees and toes to get a purchase on the snow and halt the slide. The edges of the snow strip were pointed out; if there is sub-zero temperature overnight, the edges can be turned into a strip of ice, even more dangerous.

Personal endurance limits
The importance of knowing one’s endurance limits was emphasised, not that one should plan to approach one’s limit, but rather that one should avoid going near it, or asking others to approach their endurance limit. It may well be thought that limits are simply physical; however, there could be other personal or group limits such as psychological, relationship, knowledge limit. Perhaps this is an area for further exploration.

Personal reflections
Completion of the Übungsleiter course afforded a whole new perspective on the leading of mountain walks and set the standard for trek leadership. It will be interesting to see now how the Übungsleiter qualification can fit into the practical world of organised mountain walking.

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