Blooming lovely in the Gschnitztal!

by Richard Coverdale

In June 2023, seven experienced AAC(UK) members arrived in Steinach am Brenner for an anti-clockwise hutting tour of the quiet Gschnitztal, a tributary valley of the Wipptal located a 20-minute train journey south of Innsbruck.

Setting off in damp, misty conditions from the centre of Trins, a short hop from Steinach, we climbed steeply through the forest to emerge into alpine scrub and meadows. A vehicle track led us to the small Blaserhutte situated 10 minutes walk below the summit of Blaser (2241m). Blaser is renowned for its proliferation of flowers and the meadows and slopes were full of colour. Alpine flower identification turned out to be Phil and Heather's specialist subject and their encyclopaedic knowledge would inform and educate us all throughout the tour. After settling in at the hut we ventured out in better weather for an afternoon stroll to the summit. We discovered plenty of Ede!wei/3 next to the grassy path and were rewarded with superb views of Serles (2718m), one of the Stubai Seven Summits, and of the distant Karwendel mountains just north of Innsbruck.

The early mist on Day 2 disappeared quickly as we made our way over the Peilspitze (2392m). We were now a group of six as unfortunately Mark had to return to the UK. A steep ascent over scree and boulders to the Kesselspitze (2728m) took us to our high point for the tour and provided wonderful views down to the Stubaital. We followed a narrow rocky ridge over the Rater Kopf (2526m) and Wasenwand (2563m) descending to our comfortable overnight accommodation at the Padasterjochhaus (2232m), a Naturfreunde hut run by the Pranger family for over 60 years. Occasional sightings of chamois, ibex and marmot in addition to the varied alpine flora contributed to a great day.

The more challenging routes between the Padasterjochhaus and the lnnsbrucker Hutte involving steep, protected descents to the Pinnistal (normally taken in ascent) were never part of the tour plan, and thus we set off the next day in warm sunshine with an easy descent to Trins followed by a short bus journey up the Gschnitztal to Gasthof Feuerstein. After relaxing over a lovely Sunday lunch at the busy hotel we took advantage of the nearby hut Sei!bahn to offload most of our rucksack contents (€6 per bag). The steep, 3hr, 1100m ascent to the hut became much easier than it would otherwise have been in the afternoon heat.

The lnnsbrucker Hutte and the following day's Bremer Hutte were noticeably busier with most hikers on the Stubai trail. A longer day between the two huts involving lots of up and down, several passages of fixed equipment and occasional snow patches, was negotiated without difficulty. The sighting of an adder in the meadows below the Bremer Hutte boosted our alpine fauna tick list.

Low cloud rather spoilt the view of the dramatic Tribulaun peaks on the journey next day, but visibility was sufficiently good to get more sightings of chamois on the Gargglerin ridge and to appreciate the magnificent setting of the Gschnitzer Tribulaunhutte (not to be confused with the nearby Italian Tribulaunhutte) which we reached via a wonderful, contouring scree path below the Sandesjochl (2599m). Perhaps inspired by the setting, Steve led an impromptu outdoor yoga session after dinner, enthusiastically joined by Fay, Phil and Heather. Kevin and me, and the small number of other hut guests looked on with admiration and some amusement whilst taking part in the more traditional alpine evening activity of keeping warm and drinking beer. This hut, another Naturfreunde establishment, was arguably the best of the tour and definitely a place to re-visit.

The final day dawned wet and misty and never really cleared. We began with a 500m slog up to the Gstreinjochl (2540m) which separates the Gschnitztal from the Obernbergtal. The route contoured up and down on the Obernberg side of the ridge for several hours to the Trunajoch (2153m). We had our closest view of the week of a herd of chamois, saw plenty of marmots and still more new alpine flowers. The route now changed character to a gentler, rolling terrain which allowed faster progress. We quickly knocked off the remaining kilometres to the Niisslachjoch (2221m) where we planned to take the cable car back down to Steinach. The disappointment of finding the upper section not running due to the misty conditions was brushed off as we rapidly descended 600m through the forest to the middle Bergeralm station which was thankfully operating as scheduled. In the empty cafeteria, we toasted the end of a grand tour with schnapps and descended to Steinach, our heads full of alpine flora.

Thanks go to Phil, Heather, Kevin, Steve, Fay and Mark for their enthusiasm and company throughout the trip.

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