Festive Snowshoeing in the Tirol

by Richie Abela

Austria, 2022

On 13 December, we assembled at Die Boerse wintersport rental shop in Innsbruck to get kitted out with the necessary snowshoeing gear for our tour in the Stubai Alps.

Apart from being a mixed bunch of beginners and experienced (some had their own personal equipment), the group of eleven was also made up of an interesting international mix: Irish, British, Austrian and Maltese (the author).

The first two days were spent snowshoeing around our base at the peaceful Maria Waldrast Abbey (1641m), one of Tirol’s oldest Virgin Mary pilgrimage sites, above the town of Matrei am Brenner. On the first day, after some detailed briefing, we set off in gorgeous weather along easy piste tracks, passing beneath the majestic Serles Peak (2718m). Following avalanche rescue practice, we started on our first off-piste uphill forest trail, meandering gently up to the summit of Waldraster Jöchl (1878m) and back down to our base to complete a fantastic introductory day (about 6km of snowshoeing) with twilight tobogganing.

The second day was markedly more challenging, as we ascended woodland trails towards Blaser (2241m). However, strong cold wind and lack of time forced us to descend after the subsidiary summit of Weißes Wandl (1830m) in sometimes challenging terrain! Those of us who did not include the last trudge up to the abbey covered about 10km that day. After the mandatory pint of Hefeweizen (wheat beer), we were transferred to our next base at the lively and cosy family-run Almi’s Berghotel in Obernberg am Brenner.

Low cloud greeted us on the third day, which was ideal for doing a circular route round the scenic frozen Obernberger See. After gaining a bit of height along easy mountain tracks, we descended through thick forest and mist, ploughing our way through deep snow drifts. The walk round the lake was very pleasant, being blessed with a peep inside the solitary Kapelle Maria am See, passing by a manger all laden with straw and with snowflakes dancing all around us – an atmosphere conducive to kindling some Christmas spirit. We finished the long trek (12km), passing the majestic St Nikolaus church which stands sentinel over Almi’s, and then most of us indulged in a much-needed panoramic sauna, followed by sumptuous cheese tasting and glühwein by an open fire on the porch.

On the fourth day Almi’s staff very kindly drove us to the village of Vinaders, from where we started the toughest climb of the tour, the ascent of Sattelberg (2143m). We were lucky enough to summit during a window of sunshine, with time to admire the distant peaks and take a de rigueur photo under the sentinel cross. On the final day we ascended northwest of our base to the frozen Lichtsee (2100m), covering about 7km under gorgeous blue skies, with some of us attempting running down through pure powder on the descent. The last day was spent together getting deeper into the Christmas spirit in spectacular Innsbruck. Thank you, Lesley Emin, for very ably guiding us on such an exhilarating snowshoe tour.

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