Peter-Habeler-Runde

Italy and Austria, June 2022

by Yvonne Daly, Elizabeth Fairhurst, Nuala Wright

Join us as we travel anti-clockwise around the Peter-Habeler-Runde in the Zillertaler Alpen, frequently crossing the border between Austria and Italy.

It is not how quickly we could complete it but rather about choosing the appropriate routes, the preparation for which proved vital to enable us to be flexible. We wanted the trip to be safe but challenging for each of us and to enjoy good company in stunning high mountain scenery.

Mayrhofen is an excellent starting point as a regular bus service travels seamlessly up to the Schlegeisspeicher where we began the trek. After a short but steep walk of about two hours we arrived at our first hut stop. It was Sunday but we were still surprised by the number of families and groups we met who appeared inappropriately shod andprovisioned for a very hot day. It turns outthat the Hängebrücke (suspension bridge) beside the Olpererhütte (2388m) has become an Instagram sensation. Queues for photos sometimes become less than good-natured when walkers cannot cross to continue their treks.

We stopped overnight in the winter room here, but with hindsight a good option would have been to continue a further three hours on a contouring path to the next hut. However, the extra day did allow time to investigate the route to the Scharte to be crossed the following day. We loved the cosy, historic Friesenberghaus (2477m), finished in 1930 by its Jewish sponsors. Every chair has been engraved with the name of a Jewish mountaineer who failed to return after 1945! After a delicious Bergsteigeressen, there was a warm welcome to everyone, in 2 languages, from the Hüttenwirt. He gave a useful report on the weather and route conditions for the next day followed by a hard sell on the puddings. We recommend taking all his advice seriously!

The next morning we started early, climbing up through the striking stone cairns, memorials to the Jewish founders of the hut, and continued over a boulder field to cross the much anticipated Friesenbergscharte (2910m), an easy grade Klettersteig. Fixedropes were in place in case of snow or ice. We did not need them but we were grateful tothe walkers who waited while we negotiated the final narrow and steep path to the top. It was exhilarating. You do need to be vertigo free and pay due regard to the weather to complete this pass. We were delighted to find the stamp, with ink, intact at the summit cross. The descent via the Spannagelhaus to the Tuxerjoch Haus (2316m) was snow-free and the route well below the retreating glaciers. This was the only area we encountered ski infrastructure.

From the Tuxerjoch Haus we set off for theGeraer Hütte (2326m). We all agree it was one of the best and most varied walks with ups and downs, tackling ridges and valleys, encountering fixed wires on the edges of the leegrubenscharte and surrounded all day with 360º views of high mountains. Our overnight stop included a vibrant sunset. It felt remote and peaceful.

Next morning the 988m descent through the lush, green Valsertal (designated as a conservation area in 1942 for its unique alpine forest) leads to the Jausenstation Touristenrast. The normal Peter Habeler route heads SE from this point, following the Zeischbach and then crossing an exposed high ridge called the Lange Wand. Despite asking along the way we had not met anyone who had done this route, so we chose a safer bet, given the uncertain weather conditions. We caught the bus from the Touristenrast to Steinach am Brenner, where we had planned a free day in case of a bad weather or simply a need to rest tired legs, knowing that the following ascent would be 1400m.

A day later we took an early train to Brenner, encountering Austrian police in action as they boarded the train and escorted several young men onto the platform to join about 30 others, all with small rucksacks, waiting patiently and silently. We pondered on the plight of those seeking refuge. It was a reminder of how fortunate we are to be enjoying our freedom to roam the mountains. After negotiating a spaghetti of motorway and railway bridges, we found the path to take us through the Vennbachtal to the Europahütte. Posters erected by farmers demonstrated the conflict between their animal husbandry and the re-introduction of wolves and bears in this area. Other signs gave us helpful instructions of what to do if we met a bear ... “stop, go back slowly, make yourself as big as possible and be noisy”.

The more straightforward route soon became very steep, and as the clouds swirled around we were treated to glimpses of the dramatic rocks above us. The Lange Wand could have been treacherous in the conditions which were now freezing and very wet, so we had made the right decision to avoid it. The Europahütte sits in a spectacular location on a ridge half in Austria, half in Italy. We chose the Austrian Stube to enjoy a delicious Kaiserschmarrn. Sadly, both sections of the hut are leaking badly but it was due to close at the end of September for renovation. The descent to the Pfitscherjochhaus the following day began on an old military “road”. It is a wonder how the soldiers managed to get themselves, horses, guns, and provisions along this steep and narrow track.

After reading the following day’s weather forecast and the map again, we decided to cancel the long, contouring walk, undulating several times between 2276m and 2859m back to the Olperer, and descend directly to the Schlegeisspeicher. It was a lovely walk down to the dam where we had started but by 10am it was bright and sunny. Above us we could see the clear, enticing ridges where we should have been and we knew we had taken the wrong decision. We will return to complete it another year. When we do, we will begin by staying at Bergsteiger-Zimmer Pension Obermair in Mayrhofen with its small indoor pool, sauna and garden, where the staff are friendly and provide the best Austrian breakfast.

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