Course participants with Linker Fernerkogal behind – Photo by Charlotte

A fun informative week in the Alps
with laughs included

by Martin Pickles

As I approached the Hotel Berghof (Mittelberg, Ötztaler Alpen), where we had been told to meet our guide and instructor, Robert Thaler, a sense of apprehension prevailed. I'm 50, of average fitness, mainly a UK fell walker with a smattering of Alpine hikes, looking to extend my skill mix and I was about to undertake the WELTbewegend Foundation Alpine Skills course with a group of individuals I hadn't met. What if they were all in their early twenties, super fit, ice axe ninjas, and regular glacier travellers? Well, I needn’t have worried. Over a drink Reuben, Charlotte, Binka, Fruit, Lorna and I got to know one another. We discussed our level of mountain experiences and hopes for the course. Experience-wise I’d say I was somewhere in the middle, while age-wise I was nearer the top end!

Once Robert joined us we departed for our base, the Braunschweiger Hütte (2759m), just a four hour walk away. Fortunately, Robert arranged for the goods lift to transfer our heavier bags to the hut. Once we arrived, Robert explained hut etiquette and directed us to our accommodation. All of us were staying in a rather small room; however, we were not intending to stay in the room long, we wanted to be out on the mountains!

Monday was the first full day of hands-on Alpine training. Robert had set the tone for the week on the hike up to the hut: “if we go slowly, we will go far”. So, we began leisurely with a kit check/discussion followed by demonstrating our proficiency, or lack of, in harness and crampon wearing. We then revised some basic knots before packing everything away and headed for the Karlesferner, the glacier below the hut. Once we had donned our crampons, and with ice axes in uphill hands, we ventured onto the glacier. We played follow-my-leader, stepping/leaping over small crevasses while Robert described the different glacial features. When confident on the ice, we practised roping up and travelling as a group. After returning to the hut, and under Robert’s supervision, we practised setting up a hauling system for crevasse rescue.

Over the following days, by adhering to Robert’s mantra, not only were new Alpine skills introduced but, by repetition, we became proficient at basic skills whilst gaining experience in more advanced techniques. The course also covered belaying, prusiking, moving on snow and ice, cutting steps, self-arrest, snow anchor, ice screw placement/belays, Abalakov anchor, abseiling, taking coils, pulley systems, maps and route reviews. Personal highlights of the training included practising crevasse rescue and self-arrest. When setting up a hauling system, it’s amazing how much of a challenge it is, not only to remember which knot goes where but also the physical effort required to haul someone out. Ice axe self-arrest is not only a vital skill but great fun to practise, reminiscent of childhood tobogganing but without the sled!

Thursday saw us put all our new skills into practice by undertaking a route from the hut to ascend the Linker Fernerkogel (3277m). Once we reached the glacier it was noticeable how much more proficient we now were at donning our climbing gear and crampons. Transferring from the Karlesferner to the Hangender Ferner was via a steep ice sheet; we had practised this earlier in the week so we all knew what was required. An ice screw secured a rope to which we all attached a prusik before ascending. Once on the wet (snow-covered) Hangender Ferner we roped up as one group. We knew from our previous outings on the glacier that communication (‘faster’, ‘slower’, ‘look out for that crevasse’) up and down the rope was key for rope discipline. A final zig-zag approach to reduce the gradient, and a short clamber over a snowless rocky approach, saw us on the summit. We were rewarded with good views in all directions. Retracing our steps back to the hut was hard going as the snow was now much softer.

The course isn’t just about learning new skills, you meet new people and have to get used to hut life. On this course there were six individuals with varying degrees of experience and fitness. Fortunately, we all came together really well, everyone shared their knowledge and helped less experienced members learn new skills. There was also a lot of friendly banter and many, many laughs.

If you haven’t experienced hut life before, it can be a little strange. Throughout the week the food was delicious with the staff working hard to maintain the standards. However, a hut is not a hotel, don’t forget your hut etiquette. Leave your boots and wet gear in the boot/drying room, bring hut shoes and a sleeping bag liner, pay with cash not card, hot water is limited with showers costing extra ~ €1/minute. Limit noise after 22:00, electrical plugs and wi-fi reception are limited.

Friday was our final full day and Robert suggested using the glacial mouth to practise belay placement, abseiling and ice axe climbing in the morning. In the afternoon he introduced pulleys and progress capture devices into our crevasse rescue hauling system; what a difference a reduction in friction can make!

Saturday saw us return to Mittelberg before onward travel to our respective homes. When I reflect on the course, I think it was excellent value for money. There is a generous grant available from the AAC(UK), although with flights and equipment, costs can add up. Robert was knowledgeable and via his 'if we go slowly, we will go far' approach layered information throughout the course length. Undoubtedly, the group dynamics also made the week a pleasure, with much banter and many happy memories. For all of us on the course I guess the next challenge is how to revise and build upon these foundation alpine skills. It looks like another trip to the Alps beckons.

Charlotte about to descend a steep ice slope – Photo by Martin Pickles

Martin mid-prussik at the glacial mout - Photo by Fruit

Taking a break on the descent of the Linker Fernerkogel – Photo by Martin Pickles

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