Vingemale-Perdidi Circuit, Pyrenees

by Clare Harris

I'm sitting on a bench in the dining room hugging a total stranger who is wrapped in a blanket and shivering violently. It transpires his name is Gabriel and he has just run the last few metres to the Refuge de Bayssellance (2651m) and virtually collapsed through the door and out of the storm, on the verge of hypothermia and incapable of doing anything.

Our group of seven AAC(UK) members had had the good sense to sit it out and accept an enforced rest day, to be spent grazing, snoozing and reading. This was day 8 of our trip, and until then we'd had terrific weather and strenuous but enjoyable (mostly) days following snaking paths around the imposing rugged peaks and over several cols, some of which were a little airy for my liking.

The memory and discomfort of our first night in a full-to-bursting hut with insufficient bed space for us all on the first night (sleeping on a worktop in the self-catering kitchen, anyone?) had been replaced by subsequent fabulous walking with stunning views and great company. Although late in the season, a variety of flowers still graced the hillsides of this harsh environment; harebells in hues of pale blue to deep indigo, yellow saxifrage and pink cranesbill, poisonous devil's claw and dainty alyssum. After two strenuous days we were able to visit the renowned Cirque de Gavarnie at a more leisurely pace, drinking chocolat chaud while vultures circled overhead, and being mesmerised by one of Europe’s longest single drop waterfalls at 422m, La Grande Cascade de Gavarnie.

A short stride to the fabulously situated Refuge des Espuguettes (2027m) allowed for peak bagging Piméné (2800m) and making the acquaintance of the curious and opportunistic donkeys searching pockets for snacks. From there, we ventured across the border to Spain, taking the high road via the 8-bed unserviced cabane Refugio de Tucarroya (2661m) guarded by the Virgin Mary. She must have been smiling on us as we scrabbled up an incredibly steep, loose, chossy chute to the narrow col, only to find an equally uninviting descent. Thankfully this was shorter, with tremendous views of the turquoise Lago de Marboré and the incredibly contorted rock face of Monte Perdido scantily clad by rapidly retreating glaciers.

A long lunch break ensued before we wandered on to the Balcón de Pineta. Oh, how blissful the ignorance of the 1400m knee wrecking descent to the Refugio Pineta (1240m), with revival by cold beers (cheap) and hot showers (mixed) in order of priority! Our evening meal of vast quantities of meat and no veg in the company of voluble Spaniards was spent in contemplation of the return journey to Gavarnie, albeit via a lower and, allegedly, according to hut guardian Alberto, easier col. No alternative - buses only three times a week! Refreshed by a welcome good night's sleep in the 4-person, shoebox dormitories, we were away early next morning. The easier col was airy again and culminated in a steep scree slope, rearing up vertiginously as a grand finale to the col. This was reached with sighs of relief, both for attaining such an exalted position and for seeing the more realistically graded footpath on the far side.

Retracing our steps to Gavarnie, with a refreshment pause at Espuguettes again (well, it would have been rude not to), was a true delight. A rest day in sight. But some folk have a different definition of the term 'rest day'! Carew had set his sights on ascending Le Taillon (3144m) via the direct scramble route up the Cirque de Gavarnie headwall and the spectacular Brèche de Roland (2805m), with a return by the Vallée des Pouey Aspé, a mere 10hr day. His ‘partners in crime' were Nick, Bernadine and Eimear who all made it to the Brèche de Roland but declined the summit bid. The sensible one among us hitch-hiked to the top of the ski road, had a pleasant 90mins jaunt to the Refuge de la Brèche de Roland (2565m), three hours awaiting the arrival of the group and sunning myself on the terrace before returning the same way. Keith and Claire had a rest day!

Given the storm warnings, our route was correctly revised to skip the Refugio de Bujaruelo and proceed directly to the Refuge de Bayssellance - and hence our chance encounter with Gabriel. Happily, he was eventually restored by liberal quantities of human warmth and chocolat chaud. From here, after two nights at Bayssellance, we had a beautiful walk out on the Route des Gentianes, the path less travelled, past numerous photo-inspiring lakes, overnighting at Refuge d’Estom, no shower, washing in the lake and then reluctantly back to Cauterets. A fabulous and memorable trip.

Group photo - Photo by Bernadine Kerr

Lago de Marboré and Monte Perdido from Refugio de Tucarroya
Photo by Clare Harris

Towards Refuge d-Eston - Photo by Clare Harris

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