Intermediate Ski Tour, Tuxer Alpen
February 5-13 2022
by Charles Clay
This tour was planned for 2020 but was postponed twice because of Covid. Originally a six nights hut stay, it morphed very pleasantly into eight nights in 2022. Participants were Dan Morgan (leader), Charles Clay, Ian Mann, Steve Shillito, James Stern, Lucy Vincent.
The Tuxer Alpen are a popular touring area south-east of Innsbruck, rising to around 2800m. They are normally accessed from the north, as we did, or from a side valley of the Zillertal at the village of Tux. This tour was based around the Lizumer Hütte, at the top of the Wattental valley, some 14 km south of the small town of Wattens, situated just east of Innsbruck. Wattens is the headquarters of Swarovski Crystal. What began as a small family firm in 1865 now has an annual turnover of nearly 3bn euros and an impressive crystalthemed museum, Swarovski Kristalwellten. A steep road leads from Wattens up to Walchen, where there is a car park. From here it is 5km up to the hut. Most people arrange a taxi from here or from Wattens itself. All the land beyond the car park up to the hut is used for military training; a large camp complex lies just below the hut itself.
The hut
The Lizumer Hütte (Lizum means meadow at the top of the valley) has recently been taken over by two energetic young guys, Lukas and Tobias. The hut is based around an old building from 1912 with the traditional warm Stube that was extensively and stylishly modernised in 2002. Half of the accommodation is in small 4 bed bunk rooms. There are two bouldering walls, one inside and one out, a seminar room, free wifi, good mobile receptionand an electronic card system for recording drinks etc purchased.
The food was marvellous. Within the constraints of a standard soup, simple main course and desert, everything was delicious with locally sourced meat - we even had steak one night. Breakfast was the usual self-service affair, although they thoughtfully laid out paper bags for those wishing to make a sandwich for later. At the time Covid regulations meant that we were obliged to wear masks in all public areas except when eating or drinking, which was a little odd.
At 2019m the hut is right at the head of the valley. To the south there is a steepening path up to the highpoints Geier (2857m) and Lizumer Reckner (2886m). On either side to the east and west there are fairly gentle slopes up to modest cols, providing both easy accessible skiing and opportunities for short days. In summer it is a popular stopover on the Munich to Venice trail.
What we did
Despite problems of planes not being able to land at Innsbruck because of low cloud, we allarrived on the Saturday as planned using the taxi service, except for James who arrived later by ski from a nearby hut. We were soon out with our leader, Dan, to check gear and orientate ourselves. From the outset Dan, who has his own outdoor adventure company, set a thoroughly sound but easy-going framework to the week.
There had been a big dump of snow earlier in the week so on Sunday, when there was still an avalanche risk level of 3, Dan gave us a practical revision session in the hut`s own transceiver park. It proved quite challenging to probe down to the rather small transmitter targets. But once done, we were off westward toward the Skispitze. As we approached the light deteriorated and went so flat that it was agreed to return early.
The poor light was a precursor to the whole of Monday’s snow and wind. We were fortunate to have a couple of animateurs in the group who soon had a lively programme of activities planned. It worked really well with various group warming activities, yoga, coffee, an internet-based seminar and bouldering in the lobby, where we enjoyed a variety of fun challenges. After more useful YouTube videos we enjoyed a film about Jimmy Chin and Conrad Anker climbing the Sharks fin of Meru, by which time it was supper time and afterwards a few more games. Job done.
Tuesday was clear but as the avalanche risk had now gone up to 4, we were going to have to keep well away from any steepness. Most of the slopes around the hut are quite mellow so there were still plenty of options. We went for the Skispitze (2450m). As we got up there we could see that the adjacent Mölser Sonnenspitze (2496m) looked quite achievable, though we would have to boot up it. So we enjoyed two nice little lumps and good mellow skiing down in new powder - a lovely day.
The sketch plan shows the location of the remainder of our tour activities.
- Torspitze (2663m), an easy, fully ski-able peak in clear sunny weather and good snow.
- Torjoch (2370m), a tour in limited visibility because it snowed gently most of the day, but easy to navigate because of distinct rocky topography.
- The Mölser Sonnenspitze circular tour, pulling in the Nördliche Schoberspitze (2448m), in sunny weather.
- Unter Knappenkuchl (2272m). On our last day we had a look at the western side of the main Lizumer mountain block, towards Geier. It was a brisk, cold but sunny day and it was great to be the only group for miles around. At the Klammjoch we found a mass of snow holes, presumably used by the soldiers we had seen earlier in the week. Leaving them we contemplated going up the Klammspitze but decided to press on over the virgin snow towards Geier. Later on we stopped for a break, and setting off again were distinctly concerned when we found a large slab avalanche right across what we worked out was our potential route. The new snow was just not bonded to the old below and the slope was a little over 30 degrees! We turned back.
Geier (2857m) (meaning vulture) at the top of the valley itself would have been an important objective. Unfortunately the avalanche risks at the time meant that that it would have been dangerous to attempt, hence the exclamation marks on the plan, the reality of which we confirmed for the westernmost one!
Overall an excellent week; super hut, nice mellow slopes, fresh powder snow, plenty of good weather and a lovely fun group to be with. The trip was very ably led by Dan. His breadth of experience, sound good sense and warm approach underpinned a memorable trip.
To Torspitze, Lizumer Sonnenspitze behind
Photo by Iain Mann
Ski routes taken
by Charles Clay
View from hut towards Geier
Photo by Steve Shillito
Group warming activity
Photo by Steve Shillito
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