Expedition to Kyrgyzstan, 2021

by Tom Davis-Merry & Alex Metcalfe

Mountains cover 95% of the territory of Kyrgyzstan and 40% of those are above 3000m. Although geographically isolated by mountainous terrain, and being the country furthest from the ocean, Kyrgyzstan has been at the crossroads of several great civilisations as part of the Silk Road. The mountainous region of the Tian Shan covers over 80% of the country and is home to the country’s highest peak Jengish Chokusu, 7439m.

Although many of the mountains over 5000m have been wellexplored, there are thousands of accessible summits above 4000m still unclimbed. It was these that would serve as the team’s objectives. Several peaks had been identified along the East Bordlu glacier with summits awaiting first ascents, and could be climbed in a fast and light alpine manner without fixed ropes and bolted protection.

With the expedition already delayed a year by the Covid pandemic, a new team was formed comprising expedition leader Tom Davis-Merry, medic Wayne Auton, photographer Alex Metcalfe and climbers Tom Simpson, Sam Davis, and Sam Mace. The team agreed to continue planning despite the uncertainty ahead.

As the day of departure approached, nerves were stretched to the limit by lost equipment, partners catching COVID, and changing travel restrictions. Thankfully, clothing generously provided by Montanearrived with just hours to spare and funding from the sponsors was received once in country. Unfortunately the team’s medic, Wayne Auton, who held the expedition’s medical supplies and prescription drugs, was unable to join the trip when the BMC refused his insurance, as he was flying to Bishkek from Chamonix. Against nearly all odds, Alex Metcalfe, Sam Davis, and Sam Mace departed the UK for Bishkek on 31 July 2021. They were joined a day later by Tom Davis-Merry and Tom Simpson who missed their flights when their fit-to-fly PCR test results were lost by a laboratory courier. Once in country, and with admin complete, the team were joined by Svetlana Veselova who would cook and run basecamp for them. The team left Bishkek on 4 August and drove east to Karakol before changing vehicles and striking south for the Kuiluu Valley. After three days of travel they arrived and established basecamp at the confluence of the Bardytor and Kuiluu rivers at 3100m. Using a series of gear caches en route to ferry loads, tentative probes were made into the surrounding valleys to establish advance base camp (ABC). Tom Simpson found a site on a tongue of moraine that ran parallel to the East Bordlu glacier at 4050m. Whilst hauling loads, Sam Mace developed a foot infection and after returning to basecamp to recover, the decision was made to evacuate him by helicopter. Sam then underwent minor surgery in country before returning to the UK.

Returning to ABC the following day, the remaining team recced the area and identified a ridge running parallel to the glacier with two potential objectives. The first would tackle a steep scramble before joining a moderate snow ridge. The second would attack a spur further along the glacier with potential for some good mixed climbing.

On 13 August, the expedition successfully summited Pk 4788 via the first line on its west flank and a broad summit ridge after five hours of climbing. From the glacier, the route was approximately 2.5km long with 700m of height gain and graded PD. Whilst being technically straightforward, the route was superb. A steepening rocky scramble led to gentle snow slopes and a broad plateau with stunning views of the surrounding Tian Shan. Truly classic in mountaineering style, the team dodged cornices, wove around rocky spires, and moved together along a moderate snow ridge whilst pursuing the summit dome. After much handshaking and picture posing, descent to ABC was made via the same route, with a slight variation to avoid the worst of loose rock on the lower section.

On 14 August the team climbed the second line on the same peak, reaching a col 100m below the summit on the west flank via a broken ridge and upper snow slopes, graded AD depending on conditions. One pitch of moderate ice earned the route this higher grade, with Tom Simpson putting in a graceful lead whilst the team waited below in eager anticipation. More rocky scrambling followed, before upper snow slopes gave way to the pre-summit col. With dark clouds forming on the horizon, the team decided not to return to the summit and instead descended to ABC tired and hungry, but happy the objectives of the expedition had been met.

Returning to basecamp on 15 August to rest, the team discovered that Svetlana, the expedition cook, had been attacked by a local farmer, robbed at knifepoint, and several of the camp tents damaged. Our logistics provider, ITMC, was immediately informed and a quick reaction by the border security guards meant the perpetrator was captured the following day. This incident cut short the climbing window by eight days, and no further objectives were attempted. The team were warned not to stay in the valley for fear of further reprisals and retired from camp to Bishkek on 19 August. The remaining time was spent dealing with the Kyrgyzstan police and border force agencies. The perpetrator was taken to court in December 2021 and sentenced in January 2022.

With the exception of the basecamp security incident and the medivac of Sam Mace, once in country the expedition ran smoothly. The climbing was adventurous and exploratory, in a superb setting, and the team made a first recorded ascent of Pk 4788, which they fittingly named ‘Perseverance Peak’.

This expedition was made possible by support from the Mount Everest Foundation and the Alpine Club Climbing Fund, and was endorsed by the British Mountaineering Council. The team are also grateful to Montane, Expedition Foods, and FATMAP for their generous support. Logistics, permits, and in-country support were provided by ITMC.

Journey to base camp
Photos by Alex Metcalf

Climbing day 2

Night-time at ABC

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