The One that Got Away - Piz Bernina

by Colin Lawson

This article is not about success, but failure. The outcomes of some activities are hard to predict; there is a thin line between the two. Mountaineering, even the modest variety, is one such. This is about one of mine, the Piz Bernina. It is not very high at 4049m; it is not technically difficult at PD+. The main feature of interest is that along with the Gran Paradiso and the Barre des Ecrins, it is a big isolated summit. It gives its name to the range of mountains marking the border between Switzerland and Italy and can be climbed from either country. Aged 55, before claiming my first 4000er, the notion of trying to climb all 50+ was out of the question. These three seemed a more reasonable ambition. However, in July 2021, after my seventh unsuccessful attempt all alpine endeavours were abandoned. Age and physical decrepitude were the cause. What follows is a litany of mishap, misadventure with an added amount of bad luck spanning 26 years. The mountain now forms part of my Alpine DNA.

1. Sept 1995. The Mishap. The plan was to make the ascent from the Swiss side with fellow AAC(UK) member and friend Andy Creighton, meeting at Pontresina. I was travelling from England by car, he from Austria after completing an AAC alpine training course. We were late meeting up and missed the last cable up to the Diavolezza Hotel. Not enough time had been allowed for delay so we went to the Hut and climbed the Piz Morteratsch (PD-, 3751m) and watched climbers on the Boval Biancograt, the Bernina's famous North face, wishing we were there.

2. July 2008. No Show. To Pontresina with AAC(UK) member and friend Dick Wilkins. We were disappointed to discover from the Guides Office the route from the Diavolezza was out of condition and unsafe. We joined a group doing the ascent of Piz Palu (PD, 3905m) which again offered good views of the Bernina, this time from the east.

3. July 2012. The Accident. Following the failed visit of 2008, it was decided make an attempt by the Italian route. Two friends Dick Wilkins and George Taylor, who had climbed the Bernina from the Swiss side, kindly agreed to come in support. Steady progress was made until the bergschrund marking the start of the via ferrata was reached. At that time the ladder on the 15m rock wall opposite stopped around half way. Access to the ladder was by way of two ropes. With our combined ages of over 200 years George, our rope leader, expressed his reservations, but Dick, an experienced alpinist who had climbed 45 of the 50 4000'ers volunteered to try and promptly fell off! Held by the rope he fortunately suffered nothing worse than minor facial injuries. The Warden of the Marinelli Hut who is responsible for maintaining the route seemed embarrassed by this incident. It seemed something similar had happened quite recently.

4. Sept 2015. Bad Weather. Approaching the age of 80, the Bernina became the only 4000m Alp that still seemed feasible. It had the benefit of a high hut and short summit route. It would be my 30th. The services of Murray Hamilton, a British guide living in France, were engaged for this attempt. The date chosen was just after my birthday. It seemed a fitting note on which to end!!! On the way from the Marinelli Hut 2813m it was pleasing to find that where Dick Wilkins’ mishap had occurred, the ropes had been replaced by ladders across the bergschrund and up the wall; a much-needed improvement. After 4 hours and 800m of height gain, the Marco e Rosa Hut (3610m) was reached. Murray, sensitive to his client's age and capabilities, decided to defer tackling the final section (400m and 2hrs) until the next day. The forecast, although not good, seemed to have got better. However, this proved to be over-optimistic. Snow had fallen overnight and the wind was still strong. Conditions worsened as height was gained. With wind increasing and spindrift filling our tracks within seconds, it became clear after an hour at 3850m, the final rock section would be dangerously exposed. There was nothing else left but to turn back.

5. Sept 2017. The Avalanche. Engaging Murray Hamilton as guide for the second time, the starting point was again the Marinelli Hut. The weather was overcast and threatening. One other pair left before us and were about 250m ahead. On approaching the couloir leading up to the via ferrata a loud bang heralded a wet snow avalanche which spread 150m ahead of us across the route. The first pair had got through. We were fortunate not to be caught in its path, serious injury or worse might have been the consequence. Murray, who had lost his former partner in an avalanche in the French Alps some years before, decided it was unwise to continue and I agreed. The outlook for the following day was worse; yet another failed effort.

6. July 2019. The Mishap (2) With Murray not available until Sept, it seemed better to go earlier in July since this is regarded as the optimum mountaineering month. A local Italian guide was engaged. Speed and stamina continued to decline each passing year so it seemed the right time to reuse an old pair of walking crampons which had been carefully stored since 1994 when, during an ascent of the Eiger by its easiest route, the late Martin Moran thought their use had contributed to my inept performance! These were half the weight of the usual rigid Camp type normally used. As ill fortune would have it, the bar on the r/h one snapped shortly after getting onto the glacier. Despite the guide's best efforts the break appeared beyond repair without the right tool. (The final irony was that I had in my possession a spanner which might have done the job, but I was unable to locate it. It was found later in the one rucksack pocket that had been overlooked.)

7. July 2021. The Final Visit to Chiesa, Italy. This was made more in hope than expectation. The first day the acclimatization walk made in 2019 was repeated. However, it was apparent within one hour on the second day my climbing days were over. The lockdown of 2020 had been the final factor, with its consequentloss of fitness. It was time to think of different things. Returning to Annecy in France where my wife and I were able to celebrate our daughter's first baby and our third grandchild was the best consolation of all.

Marinelli hut and Piz Bernina
Alamy stock photo

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