Return to the Ötztal

by Rob Griffith

Having previously spent two summer holidays in Obergurgl, I had a good idea of the potential of the Ötztal for high-level walking. But in 2019 I went solo, so as to savour the area to the full. There are good huts in the area, but I went for a bit of luxury and stayed at the Hotel Alpenland; there was no problem reaching high from there as the town is already at over 1800m. It was very comfortable, with super staff and service: highly recommended.

For my first day, I planned to take things easy and acclimatise. All went well however and I made a circuit of the valley, topping out at the Ramolhaus at 3006m. The hut had a guitar (most of them have); so I gave them a couple of songs, and ended up receiving a very favourable mention in an article in the Hamburg periodical Hamburger Abendblatt. My return trip involved a crossing of the new Piccard Brücke (footbridge) – a slender ribbon of steel 100m above the gorge. Enclosed and perfectly safe, but don’t look down….

For my next trip, I revisited the Hangerer (3020m), which looms directly above the town like an outsized Tryfan. I should make it clear that all my exploits were basically walks – quite serious ones, but nothing daring or risky. And certainly no glacier work, unless with a guide. I know my limitations. I carried a harness and slings in case of the occasional tricky move on a marked route, but didn’t really need them.

The high point of my fortnight (altitude wise, that is) was the Eiskögele (3233m), a truly spectacular viewpoint and pretty remote – four hours from my lodgings via the Langtalereckhütte (2450m). The upper reaches involved taking good care on a lot of sharp flaky rock; but again nothing that would trouble any competent hiker.

I summited a couple of high passes from Obergurgl. The Königsjoch to the border with Südtirol took me into mist, but the route was easily followed. Coming down on the Italian side was more challenging as the “path” was pretty precarious in places: the odd bit of fixed rope was rather frayed, inspiring little confidence. Thankfully, I came down in time to catch the bus back over the Timmelsjoch pass – much later and I would have had a three- hour wait. On another day I went up on the west side of the valley to the Seenplatte, an undulating shelf studded with little lakes. On from here up to the Gurgler Schartl. This looks like an obvious key to the Zirmkogel (3278m), but I had been warned of a glacier in the way. I did continue for a little further to obtain a view of the summit but the ground was very bouldery and trackless, and, sure enough, there was the glacier. It was a small one, but time to retreat. I was at around 3000m; honour, and prudence, were satisfied.

These were solo ventures, but I did do several walks in company. Together with a lady named Kristina, who had lived and worked in England and whose English was impeccable, I ascended the Wurmkogel (3082m) via a route that was only shown on newer maps. The route wound its way up from the Königstal, crossing snowfields below the summit. We celebrated with heiße Schokolade in the Topstar Restaurant before taking the chairlift and gondola back down to Hochgurgl and traversing back to Obergurgl. And I joined a guided group for a traverse of the Wildes Mannle (3023m) above Vent. A fine eminence in its own right, with a couple of delightful scrambly bits, this summit was enhanced by its superb close-up prospects of the Wildspitze, on which we could watch groups crossing the glacier. We descended to the Breslauer Hütte (Ed. - featured in the Summer 2021 Newsletter) for refreshments. And yes, another guitar!

Four three-thousand metre summits followed thereafter, with yet more adventures. With guide Gabriel and his search and rescue dog Da Vinci, a group of us set off in early morning mist from the Hohe Mut gondola for the crossing of the Rotmoosferner to the Rotmoosjoch. This involved donning crampons, and a roped ascent to the col, now left high and dry by the retreat of the ice. The glaciers here have shrunk quite alarmingly since my first visit in 2002; the Wasserfallferner is no longer aptly named, as it stops short of the sheer rock face over which it used to descend. We were on very loose, steep, shaley ground, but the Zwickauer Hütte (2989m) beckoned on the Italian side and we took lunch there, accompanied by a vintage Trabant that had presumably been brought up on the service lift. The descent from the col on the return journey was via a fixed cable, for which we again roped up. A slight technical hitch saw me making my way down on one crampon, belayed by Gabriel; but all was well, and we were soon relaxing for a spell and hunting for garnets in the schist.

The final mountain day saw me with Gabriel again, together with a couple of young ladies whom he knew from working in the ski office. We took the bus round to Vent and hit the ca 1200m ascent to the Ramoljoch at 3189m. Carole and Julietta set a cracking pace, despite having been out partying the night before. Nonetheless, and in spite of being thrice their age, this old-timer did just about manage to keep up. At one point I even took the lead, gallantly, as Carole was a bit nervous of the cows on the path. A flock of Alpine choughs screamed overhead as we rested on the col. We then descended using some straightforward bits of fixed wire to the Ramolhaus, then continuing to Obergurgl. Another great outing.

For my last day, I actually did relax a bit, joining the crowds parading around the town to mark the feast of the Assumption. I continued, meandering up through the Zirbenwald past the spectacular Rotmooswasserfall, to the Schönwieshütte for a final gaze up towards the glacier. All was accompanied by appropriate refreshment, of course. By now, Obergurgl was almost beginning to feel like home….

Gurglerferner glacier from the Ramolhaus
Photos Rob Griffith

Hangerer (left of centre) from the Ramolhaus

Ascending the Wurmkogel from the Königstal

View from Hangerer, Eiskögele second from the right

Descent from the Wildes Mannle

En route to the Ramoljoch (3189m) from Vent

Retmoosferner with Rotmoosjoch (3055m) centre

Summit of the Eiskögele (3233m)

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