Return to Weiβkugel

by Peter Finch

Since 1997 Peter Dixon and I have spent a couple of weeks in the Alps each year. We started with the easier 4000m peaks, but with the passing of the years we settled for lesser targets or simply unaccompanied hut-to-hut treks.

In 2015 we opted for a ‘last hurrah!’ on the high level snow routes (although Peter keeps his crampons polished in the hope that maybe, one day ….. ). We chose the Weisskugel (3739m) in the Ötztal because I had unfinished business there. In 2011 we left the Brandenburger Hut in perfect conditions. It was hard, crisp, virgin snow from the previous day’s foul conditions and the sun just touching the surrounding peaks as we marched down the Gepatschferner; perfect! After a nasty scramble down snow-covered rocks and a long haul up the Langtauferer Ferner to the Hintereisjoch I was struggling, so paused in the falling snow while Peter and Robin summited. By the time we reached the Schöne Aussicht hut (one of our favourites) I was exhausted.

In 2015 we reversed the route. We met our local guide, Michael Veit, in Feichten and set off by bus up the Kaunertal. A pleasant stroll brought us to the Gepatschferner where we donned crampons simply to get a grip as there was no snow cover. A short cut up a snowfield by-passed the crevassed section and we were soon at the delightful Rauhekopfhütte (2731m). This is a little frequented hut staffed on rotation by volunteers from the DAV Sektion Frankfurt am Main rather than a full-time warden. Even though the kitchen was being refurbished, soup and beer were provided and Michael went off to reconnoitre the next day’s route while we relaxed. On his return he shamed us into a short climb up the Kleine Rauher Kopf (2805m) from which we had great views back down the Kaunertal and to the surrounding mountains including the Weißseespitze and Fluchtkogel (3497m).

Once again the Gepatschferner was in excellent condition and we had an enjoyable trudge up the glacier past the Brandenburgerhaus perched on the rocks above us, with excellent views to the Weiβkugel, Weißseespitze and Hintereisspitze. We took a zig- zag route up the Fluchtkogel (3500m), noting that the cross which towered above us in 2011 was now, in late June, just knee height above the snow. Another difference from 2011 was that we could actually see the view to the Wildspitze, Ortler and Piz Palü (previous conquests). Descent through softening snow and along a moraine brought us to the Vernagthütte. We had some misgivings as major building works were under way but hot showers, a leisurely afternoon and a good dinner allayed our fears. Michael went off to check the planned route but reported that landslips had created a major diversion with an additional 200m climb and a possible river crossing, and coupled with forecast thunderstorms persuaded us to abandon the Wildspitze.

A gentle contouring path to the Breslauerhütte allowed us to watch the constant stream of helicopters carrying ready-mixed concrete to the Vernagthütte, giving some idea of the logistical complexity of hut construction and renovation. Stoically ignoring the temptations of a coffee break at the Breslauer we pressed on, enjoying the panorama of the Rofental below us, and then scrambled over rock, snow, moraines and a small cliff to the cross at the summit of the Wilden Mannle (3050m). Clouds were gathering over the Wildspitze and it started snowing, so we hastened down a challenging rocky descent to the cable car and Vent. We parted company with Michael and spent a restful night in the Hotel Similaun.

Peter had fond memories of the town of Sölden from a visit about 50 years previously so we took a bus ride there on our rest day but it appeared very commercialised so we returned disappointed. The next day we took the path alongside the Rofenache through delightful meadows filled with the scent of alpine flowers, pausing to photograph the Haflinger horses which are a feature here. Below the Hochjochhospiz we knew of a shortcut which saved 100m climb to the hut and we were soon crossing the Rofenache. From here, the ascent was through barren, rocky terrain below the Fineilspitze and past the Hochjochferner where the noisy, smelly piste-bashers were at work preparing the ski slopes. The Schöne Aussicht hut did not disappoint, providing an excellent dinner and even a Steinbock on the ridge above the hut for photographers. After dinner we met Florian, our guide for the rest of the trip.

Leaving the hut at 04:45 we descended the main path and then turned up a small, signposted path whilst pursued by a herd of inquisitive goats. Once past the cable car station, we donned crampons and climbed to the top of the ridge which overlooks the Hintereisferner. Near the end of the ridge we dropped down onto the glacier and then crossed a steep snow slope on a dodgy path with rocks occasionally falling from above, a distinctly unpleasant place! On reaching the Hintereisjoch, where I had bottled out in 2011, we dropped rucksacks and set off up the long snow slope to the rocky ridge which led to the summit of the Weiβkugel. Job done! My reward was to reach the summit; Peter’s was to have a splendid view, a full 360° panorama. The long descent of the Langtauferer Ferner through softening snow was dreary and terminated in a river which was full of melt water, necessitating removal of boots and a rope-protected wade across. The Weiβkugelhütte (2544m) was definitely one of the ‘old school’ with a strange arrangement of rooms, outside facilities, and the food brought to the dining room by a dumbwaiter. However, the views were great!

Florian persuaded us that our plan to traverse to the Kaunertal via the Weißseespitze was unrealistic given the amount of snow, the difficulty of the route, our speed over the ground and our exhaustion after the previous day (but not necessarily in that order!). Instead, we followed a comparatively gentle route up the Falgin Tal followed by a very steep climb over rock and snow to the ridge above the Weißseeferner (3111m). A long slog down the glacier brought us to the restaurant complex at the foot of the ski area and a bus journey down the beautiful upper Kaunertal to the Gepatschhaus completed our trip.

Brandenburger Haus
Photo by Peter Finch

Below Fluchtkogel
Photo by Anon

Gepatschferner
Photo by Peter Finch

Weisskugel summit
Photo by Florian

Brandenburger Haus
Photo by Peter Finch

River crossing
Photo by Peter Dixon

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