The Stubai Rucksack route
my first Austrian adventure

by Peter Anderson

Since retiring eight years ago, I have done a few multi-day treks in the UK and a couple in Italy but hadn't set foot in Austria outside of the ski season.

This situation clearly needed to be rectified and so, at the end of July 2018, I was standing outside Innsbruck airport trying to work out how to get a bus into town. I soon learned that for a few Euros a bus would could drop me off close to my hotel.

I had booked myself a night in the town before starting the trek to give myself time to get established rather than having a mad dash to the start. It also gave me a chance to explore the city including a short walk out to the impressive Bergisel ski jump stadium, the view from the top of which looked very scary.

Next morning I got the 590 bus for a pleasant half hour trip out to Neder. I have always trekked alone, enjoying my own company in the hills and just enough sense of trepidation to get me to the shallow end of my comfort zone.

From the valley the first day has 1400m of ascent spread over 10km, however the first 600m over 6km is on an easy forest track and, after passing the marvellous rock giants at the Gespaltener Stein, I arrived at the Pinnisalm (1560m) in time for some lunch. Note: it is possible to get to the alm by taxi if preferred.

After crossing a meadow the route then starts gaining height again, easily at first and then steeply zig-zagging up to the col at Pinnisjoch (2369m), with spectacular views of the Innsbrucker Hütte perched on the eastern flanks of Habicht... wowsers! For the next 8 days I would remain above 2000m.

And so began my daily routine of finding my bed space, having a bit of a sort of my kit, doing some laundry, getting my map ready for the next day and then ordering a large "victory" beer or Radler and settling down for the evening, book in hand. My German is sadly non-existent and I wasn't aware of any other Brits in the hut. However, I heard a group of Americans on the balcony - more of them later.

After a prompt start next morning in glorious sunshine, I started the easy ascent to the first col of the day on the spur off the Alfairkamm looking back over a small lake to the hut and the spiky ridge behind.

Day two was one of the longer days, taking about 7.5h. At only 9km it's short in distance but it traverses a narrow path up and down with 900m of ascent and 800m of descent spread over the day. The views were stunning, although for a lot of the time the path is narrow with a steep dropoff, so best look where you're going rather than admiring the views! Some of the descents were a little scrappy, though protected by cables where necessary, and the route wasn't as busy as I thought it would have been in July. To finish the day I opted for the option of the fixed ropes and a ladder up a chimney to just below the Bremer Hütte.

Later that evening, sitting outside enjoying a beer, I overheard a couple of the Americans sitting across from me. One of them had a problem with his rucksack - the bolt on the external frame had broken (it was an old pack). He was wondering if the hut warden might have a nut and bolt he could use to repair it. I always carry a little bag of emergency things in my pack, including gaffer tape (obviously) and also a few cable ties. So, a few minutes later we had one mended rucksack and one happy American.

The next day was much shorter and after a steady hike I arrived at the Nürnberger Hütte in time for lunch and an afternoon relaxing. My new American friend asked me to join his group for dinner and so a friendship was established. They were a group of twelve, mostly from the Boston area, on the same itinerary as me and so over the next few days I got to know them quite well. Despite travelling as a group of twelve they would walk in smaller groups depending on their preferred pace. Occasionally I would walk with one or two of them for a couple of hours, but then we'd separate again meeting up at the huts for dinner and a game of cards.

Day four was the only day without clear skies. It was a short day so I took the small detour to top out on Mairspitze (2781m) in light cloud, but soon dropped below it again down to the Sulzenauhütte (2191m).

Day five was another short one and with blue skies and fluffy clouds. I took the topping out option again, this time on Großer Trögler (2902m), reached by a wonderful airy ridge and with stunning views across to the Zuckerhütl (3505m) which is the highest peak in the Stubai Alps. An easy descent followed down to the large and very comfortable Dresdner Hütte (2308m).

Day six was a full 8h as the route turned NE back towards the start. It starts on easy paths gently gaining height to cross the first of three cols. It then becomes more broken, using fixed ropes to descend steeply whilst working its way around the next col on Schafspitzl (2760m). Another steep descent with more fixed ropes is followed by a period upwards, again on broken rocky ground, to the high point of the day at Grawaggrubennieder (2880m). From there it is a loose, steep descent crossing a couple of snow patches and an awkward boulder field to Hochmoos, a beautiful high valley fringed with cotton grass and the rustic Neue Regensburger Hütte (2286m)perched on the lip at the end of the valley.

Day seven was another short one up and over to the busy Franz Senn Hütte (2171m) with one short and slightly awkward section where the path had been avalanched out in previous years.

Day eight was the longest, distance-wise, but an easy walk on a good path, with stunning views back to the hut and across the valley to the previous day's high point at Shrimmennieder (2706m). After a couple of hours the path passes the Seduggalm (2249m), which is the only midway "restaurant" passed on the entire route (excellent freshly cooked omelette). It then continues up to Sendersjöchl (2477m) with beautiful views the whole way back to the Franz Senn Hütte. Going around See Alm lake, an excellent path then traverses Dolomitic limestone scree slopes on the flanks of Schlicker Seespitze (2804m) before finally dropping down to the Starkenburger Hütte (2237m) which sits on a spur overlooking Neustift im Stubaital. Awonderful view point for my last night in the mountains.

Next morning, I took the longer route down using the forest track rather than the direct steeper route which looked a bit of a knee cruncher. Being an easy track, I could stride out savouring the last couple of hours of my route down to Neustift im Stubaital from where a 40min bus ride took me back to Innsbruck and the end of my first (but not last) Austrian adventure.

Day 1 - Habicht from Pinnistal
All photos by Peter Anderson

Day 2 - looking back towards Innsbrucker Hütte

Day 5 - Summit of Großer Trögler 2901m

Day 8 - Oberbergtal towards Franz Senn Hütte

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