A Beginner's Guide to Scrambling

by Will Legon

Many years ago, as a young man in my twenties, a mate introduced me to scrambling. I had no clue what it was or what it involved, but it was a weekend in the Lake District and so it sounded like the sort of lark I’d enjoy.

We cut our teeth on the infamous (and very friendly) Striding Edge that led us to the summit of Helvellyn. It went so well that we were in fact back at our car by lunchtime. Idly flicking through his guide book my mate then suggested we tick off one more route to make best use of the daylight remaining. So off we went to St John’s in the Vale for a grade 3 epic named Sandbed Ghyll.

I had no idea what I had agreed to or what lay ahead, but what transpired was three or four hours of near death scrambling up a Lake District ghyll which was also in spate at the time. Once established on the route, we were committed and, while my mate blithely led the way, I felt every perilous step would be my last. I confess, I was terrified, wondering what on earth I was doing on such a route. This is not the baptism by fire I would recommend for newcomers to this great sport. Now I’m a bit older and wiser, I share with you, dear reader, some pearls of wisdom gleaned over those years.

What is scrambling?

Scrambling lies in that grey area between hill walking and rock climbing. It is where you head out to the mountains equipped for a day of walking, but looking for a definite adventure. You look for lines that will allow for some clambering and climbing on the rocks – but hopefully nothing too hard or technical.

Scrambling grades

Scrambles are graded 1 – 3, with grade 1 scrambles being at the easier end of the spectrum. Normally these are easy to follow and to climb and these routes shouldn’t be too hard to escape from. That said, escaping from classic grade 1 routes such as Tryfan’s North Ridge or Crib Goch could prove difficult and more dangerous than sticking to the route.

Grade 2 scrambles will involve some harder moves and will in general be more committing. Inexperienced scramblers who may not be so confident at height or not so sure-footed may prefer some of the moves to be safe-guarded by a rope.

With grade 3 routes you should expect the whole shebang! Go out and expect the route to be hard to find, hard to climb and do expect to need a rope for the crux moves.

First time - go with a mate (but not my mate)

The first time you decide to head out for a scrambling adventure I suggest that you go with someone that can show you the way. Scrambling involves so many skill-sets that you really don’t want to be taking them all on in one day. Hence find an experienced mate, or join a club outing, or hire a guide for your first outing.

Helmet?

On some routes you should wear a helmet. Often this might be because there is an increased chance of loose rock above you (often in gullies), or the likelihood of slipping over on wet rocks (in ghylls). If I am headed out on a traverse of a popular ridge I won’t bother with a helmet. But if I’m headed up a gully on Bristly Ridge for example, or I’m on Jacks Rake beneath lots of climbers, then I will take a helmet. I know that often I am the exception - most people never wear helmets on Jacks Rake - but then I am aware of heuristic traps!

Ropes?

As a mountain leader I always carry a rope when out with a group in the mountains. However, I carry this not to facilitate the day’s plan but to facilitate an escape should the need arise. Typically, in my 30 years of leading people in the mountains I have only ever needed a short line to short-rope someone off the hill because something has happened not to plan. For grade 1 scrambles you should not expect to need a rope at all. For harder routes then a rope should be carried but as important as having a rope to hand is having the skills that go with it. In essence: ropes are no substitute for experience and knowledge.

Think carefully about your first route choice

There are some great grade 1 scrambles that you will be drawn to - especially if you ask the masses on social media. Take care though to choose routes for your first few forays that are not overly committing, that are easy to find and that are easy to follow, especially so if you’re headed out on your own.

Routes like Crib Goch for example are sustained and offer no escape once you’re up there. Jack’s Rake in the Lakes is an awesome route, but if you get half way up it and decide you’ve no head for heights, there’s no turning back! Tryfan’s North Ridge is a favourite for many, but it’s so easy to wander on to challenging, exposed grade 2 territory, so again I suggest that this is a route best saved for another day.

Only go in good weather

When you’re headed to steep ground the chances of coming a cropper are greatly increased if the weather isn’t just right. For me, wind and rain often rule out scrambling. My rule of thumb is that if winds exceed gusting speeds of 25mph then that will rule out a day scrambling where I am responsible for those around me. Also consider the direction of wind as well as the speed and force.

Scrambling is fun

Scrambling is exciting, it’s airy, it’s exposed, it’s exhilarating, and most of all it’s simply a GREAT way to ascend a mountain. Go prepared for the day and you’ll have a great day to remember!

Will Legon of Will4Adventure works professionally in the outdoors as a mountain leader and rock climbing instructor. This summer the AAC(UK) will be subsidising scrambling courses run by Will4Adventure.

Striding Edge - Lake District
All photos by Will Legon

Y Gribin Ridge - Snowdonia

Crib Goch - Snowdonia

Jack's Rake - Lake District

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