Negotiating weather systems in Glencoe
March 2019

by Paul Marginson

After the warmest February on record, nine Club members headed to Glencoe at the start of March to be greeted by fresh snowfall with more falling overnight. The idea for the meet was to provide members who had participated in the Club's excellent training courses in winter mountaineering over recent years the opportunity to put to use the skills learned. The forecast for our 5-night stay in the traditional stone-built Blackrock Cottage, situated under the northern end of the Blackmount, signalled that a series of Atlantic weather systems would be moving through. We chose our routes with a view to the direction and strength of the wind as well as the snow conditions.

For the Monday (our first day), the forecast promised strong southerlies easing in the late morning. Seven of us decided to tackle the round of Ben Lui's magnificent northern corrie, Coire Gaothaich, involving a 7km walk along a good track along the glen either way (allowing time for the wind to maybe abate). Shortly after turning steeply up the hill it duly did so and the clouds broke to reveal a clear blue sky overhead. From around the 550m contour we encountered a layer of fresh powder snow. Opting to ascend the left-hand ridge which presents more difficulties than its right-hand counterpart, we paused to put on crampons and bring ice axes to hand ahead of the rocky bands which constitute the crux. Finding a way through was less than straightforward in places but, with these surmounted, we eased our way to the 1130m summit. The final parts of the ascent gave sumptuous views of snow-clad peaks for miles around before we were enveloped by a wintry squall shortly after arriving at the top. Given temporary lack of visibility we opted to initially descend the more straightforward north-west ridge, cutting across a shallow corrie to gain the north ridge and continue downwards.

Ben Lui, pausing above Coird Gaothaich
Photos by Steve Woolard

The wind had swung to the east by Tuesday and, although less strong, it was still sweeping across Rannoch moor as the full party set off early for Buchaille Etive Mor. The forecast was for conditions to deteriorate around lunchtime and our plan was to ascend with the wind behind us and be in a position to descend from the bealach two-thirds of the way along the ridge as soon as necessary. Taking the direct route up Coire Tualich, the surface of the snow had crisped up. We exited up the steep snow slope to the right of the corrie headwall. The views from the main summit (which in good visibility extend across Rannoch moor to the hills beyond) were obscured by the mist. This then repeatedly lifted and descended as we traversed the intermediate tops along the 4km ridge which stretches south-east to the furthermost summit, revealing glimpses of the Blackmount, Glen Etive and a glinting Loch Etive. Our clothing was garnished by several snow flurries but nothing worse. Returning from the furthest summit to the bealach the sun broke through and our descent and walk out along the lairig were in glorious early spring sunshine, something completely unheralded by the forecasters at the Met Office and MWIS. Not that we complained. Overnight the easterlies strengthened and by dawn were driving snow past the Cottage. We hunkered down around the open fire in the wood panelled main room, disturbed only by a timely delivery of coal.

ln a further meteorological twist, Thursday's forecast (and reality) brought strong northerlies. Plans for Stob Coire nan Lochan and Bidear nam Bain were set aside, and we opted instead to approach the Blackmount from the south. Starting on the same Landrover then stalkers' tracks, seven branched off to ascend Stob Ghabhar via its south-east ridge: two planned to ascend from the bealach to its neighbour, Stob a' Choire Odhair. Met with repeated strong gusts, the seven decided not to attempt the narrow south-eastern ridge but instead to continue up into the corrie and then strike left on a broad ramp to gain the south ridge. Here the snow was wind scoured and hard as we battled our wav to the summit before enjoying a wind-assisted descent down the south ridge. Again, the sun broke through. Given the wind strength and its likely greater intensity on the exposed north-east ridge, the two also modified their plans and opted instead to ascend Odhair, using the zig-zag stalkers' path which ascends its south-west shoulder. Above these they put navigation skills to good use in poor visibility to successfully reach the summit, before also enjoying a more benign descent.

Ben Lui, ascending NE ridge

Dawn on Friday brought a clear panorama across Rannoch moor to Schiehallion and other hills, silhouetted against an initially pink and then increasingly fierce orange sky. The forecast was for strengthening southerlies and deteriorating, even whiteout conditions. We drove south feeling contented. The meet had attracted a diverse group with an age span of more than forty years. We jelled well on and off the hill, the Austrian concept of gemütlichkeit aptly capturing the atmosphere in the Cottage. We all felt that the conditions, and our (choice of) routes in them had enabled us to achieve what the meet aspired to offer.

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