Ski Tour in the Dolomites
by Wendy Dodds and Nic Lavery
After 'cutting our teeth' on a ski tour in the Silvretta last year, this year's destination, after much deliberation was to be in the Dolomites.
We were uncertain if we would be able to do the planned route as the snow conditions in February had not been good for touring in this particular area and we accepted that we might have to initiate plans B, C or D.
First descent of the day from Rifugio Lagazoi
Photos by Wendy Dodds
We started by bussing to Passo Falzarego (2105m) from Cortina then 2.5 hrs skinning up to the Rifugio Lagazuoi (2750m) near the top of the cable car, resisting the temptation of a quick ascent. There were amazing views and it was with some trepidation that we viewed our route between the many peaks that lay ahead. As we were to learn, the Rigugios on our route were comfortable and provided excellent meals. This Rifugio was only one of 2 where we were provided with a 3-course set menu, the rest being a la carte.
Looking down to Passo Falzarego, our starting point
Next morning we descended to the north, to Capanna de Alpina (1720m) deciding against a more southerly pass, Forceta di Lech, to which we would have to carry skis and did not know what the snow conditions would be like on the other side. We then had a short sharp section through forest to Col de Locia being surprised by 2 descending skiers. We then descended to a flat valley, with views of Monte Ciaval (2910m), eventually making Rifugio Fanes (2060m), which we had booked in advance.
We could not get a 2nd night there so went to Rifugio Lavarella, 500m away and ascended to Col de St Antone (2465m), but did not like the look of routes to Cima Nove (2970m) to the west and Piz de St Antone (2655m)to the east. So we descended on the zig zags we had made, going hurriedly past the 2 rock falls that we had passed on the way up. We then did a 'valley' route to the west (the upper part of the Utia Lavarella circuit described in the Cicerone guide Snow touring and snowshoeing in the Dolomites. This was our only day without wall to wall sunshine, with an estimated 20ºC on all our other days. Most of the time snow was satisfactory in the morning, sugary in the afternoon, sometimes icy after an overnight frost.
West of Rifugio Lavarella
Next day we descended Past Rifugio Pederu (1585m) and then a long skin up to Rifugio Sennes (2115m) where we had booked 2 nights.
Two intrepid explorers
Photo by Nic Lavery
Looking west from Rifugio Lavarella
We had thought about dropping to Lago di Braies to the N but were advised that the direct route was a difficult descent so we did our own enjoyable day trip past the summer only Rifugio Biella (2300m) and climbed to Porta Sora'l Forn (2390m). Until now our route was roughly following stage 1 of the AIta Via 1, which left us here going north while we headed more easterly the following day.
Next day was up and over, descending past an open day time Refugio below which it was a long airy descent, mainly snow ploughing down the narrow route, knowing that at the bottom there was an hourly bus to take us to the Rifugio Pratopiazza (1990m), in the absence of adequate snow cover to skin up. This was a comfortable Rifugio which we were thankful to reach and only the second set meal, which was almost too plentiful.
Next morning, leaving our non-essential kit at the Rifugio, we made an ascent of Picco di Vallandro (Dürrenstein - 2840m), having to walk a few sections carrying skis. This was a superb final day. We decided not to attempt Monte Specie (2305m), another possible summit from that location and descended to Carbonin on an easy track; after about half way the snow was giving out and we eventualy resorted to trainers for the last few km for the bus back to Cortina. We had been able to book an extra night's accommodation in Cortina where we had left ski bag and travelling clothes only minutes from the bus station.
Looking north from the summit of Picco di Vallandro
The final day we took the cable car from the centre of Cortina and practiced our piste skiing, rapidly making it on to black runs (easier than those on the Sella Ronda). Then it was an early morning bus to Venice to catch our flight back to Manchester.
Another view from the summit of Picco di Vallandro
All in all an amazing trip. We were very lucky with conditions. Although not a lot of snow, there was enough, albeit not much powder. We skied in just a base layer most of the time. There were excellent Rifugios, all private but not much more expensive than the AAC ones on the Silvretta with the bonus of twin rooms, free showers and drinking water (with the exception of R Lagazuoi). We did miss the avalanche forecasts and personal copies of the weather forecast provided in the AAC huts as on our last 3 nights there was no internet and a poor mobile signal. We were carrying about 8kg + water each and again wondered what we could have left behind, certainly some of our cereal bars!
For navigation we used the 1:25,000 Tabacco No 03 map in the main, a little of the route on 07 and a few times resorted to our compasses to check areas where there were multiple parallel valleys.
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