Winter Alpine ski traverse - Trans Alp IV
by Steve Kentish
In winter 2014, ]ohn Kentish, Sam Handley and I, left Menton to travel continuously on skis or foot to Chamonix. It took just under 5 weeks. Two years later John and I plus David Hamilton, who completed the first leg in 2015, continued across Switzerland, with Harvey Lyons joining in Zermatt Harvey and I arrived in Galtür in just over 5 weeks, John and David departing en route. In 2016 David and I set off from Bergun in Switzerland, where David finished the previous year, heading across Austria. We were initially joined by Andy Helm. Seven weeks later we arrived in summer conditions at Schladming with limited snow below 2,000m. This season had effectively finished, barring a valley walk to the small village of Fleiss.
February 2018 saw the continuation of this traverse, still maintaining a continuous track on skis or foot. The route would pass largely from populated valley to populated valley, with few huts required. David enrolled his partner Claire, for valley support which made things rather more comfortable. There was an abundance of snow and cool conditions to keep it in place.
First we passed through the Steiermark region, the early days providing few challenges other than some stormy weather making navigation a little more interesting.
Interesting tree lined navigation
Photos by Steve Kentish
Near the end of the Steiermark section we planned to stay at the Sonnschienhütte but found that it would be dosed. To exacerbate the problem, it coincidedwith the 'Beast from the East' (forecast -22ºC), which we had not expected. With our warmest gear we set off from Eisenerz in cool sunshine. After 20km and 1400rn of ascent we arrived in a brisk breeze to be confronted with a locked-up hut. Exploration of the out buildings unearthed an unlocked tractor shed, which was at least out of the wind. We found a mattress some wall insulation, a 'safety' bag and a blanket and after a fine hydrated meal settled down. Although we hadn't slept well we were alive (11ºC inside in the morning). The cold gas only provided limited water, so we set off into a strengthening breeze, not too well fed. We traversed over the Hochschwab (2277m), ow highest point and were very glad to arrive at Seebergalm after 9½ rather cold hours. Our only rest day of this leg beckoned.
The Niederösterreich area followed. We had a rewarding climb over the Hohe Veitsch. The weather deteriorated with increasing wind and cloud/snow as we arrived at the Schneealpenhaus, our second unguarded hut. Inside it felt positively warm at -8ºC. We stayed in the dining room with panoramic views on 3 sides, which were appreciated with a bright moon. Sadly, there was no stove, but the blankets were much loved.
Hohe Veitsch, 1981m
The following day took us over the Kaiserstein at just over 2000m. We summited at 17.00 above the clouds with a glorious setting sun, a fitting way to leave the last main mountain of the entire traverse. A quiet descent to Losenheim followed, arriving shortly after dark.
The remaining days took us over lower terrain, just once above 1000m. We were concerned about too much snow higher up to walk and not enough lower down to ski. We fortuitously gained a significant benefit from the earlier unusually cold weather with much low lying snow. We enjoyed some fine tree skiing and fresh tums to below 300m. On the 7th March we had our first view of Vienna from the Kammersteiner hut. We then skied to within a kilometre of the city boundary. After a stop for lunch and leaving skis at our accommodation we walked the final 13km to St Stephens Cathedral. The traverse of the Alps had finished.
This leg was the shortest, lowest and other than unseasonably low temperatures, was the least stressful. We had travelled 323km, climbing 15.5km in 16 moving days.
The entire alpine traverse totalled just over 2000km of distance, dimbing 27km in 115 moving days.
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