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Mountaineering Villages (Bergsteigerdorfer)

by Tony Cooper

The idea of the Mountaineering Villages (MV) initiative is to provide support for the villages' traditions, to protect their alpine beauty and natural resources, to encourage sustainable tourism, and support the local economy so that all this continues to be possible. The ÖAV works with the villagers and with the local governments to make this happen.

village
Grünau Almsee
Photo: Tourismusverband Almtal Heinz Hudelist

The initiative is also a big factor in averting the decay of remote villages which one sees in so many European countries. ln my experience it’s also very popular with the villagers themselves. The foundations are:

The initiative was launched in 2008 and is slowly but steadily expanding; places that wish to join have to meet strict criteria, and the designation is in part an official acknowledgement that the criteria have been met.

The website www.bergsteigerdoerfer.org is having a major rewrite including a substantial section in English, and should be in place by the time you read this. Also there's a lovely short film about the initiative at www.bergsteigerdoerfer.at

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Where are they?

As at end 2017 there were twenty MVs in Austria, two in Bavaria and one in South Tyrol. Three more are due to join the network in 2018, Kreuth in Bavaria, Lungiarü in the Gadertal, Val Badia in the Laclinian part of South Tyrol and Jezersko in Slovenia.

Climate Change and Mountaineering Villages

The annual MV conference for 2016 was devoted to this theme. lt is a major concern for the villages (as it should be for all of us), both in terms of its current and likely future impact on them and on how they can contribute to minimising it. One example of this is to proactively address expected and already observable large reductions in summer rainfall. The conference was in MV Vent in the Ötztal near some of the worst examples of the dire results of recession of once-proud glaciers. The MVs are trying to leverage the Alpine Convention (see below) to establish the Alps as a model region for climate-relevant actions while making themselves carbon-neutral.

The Alpine Convention. The Alpine Convention is an international treaty between eight Alpine states and the EU. Its aim is to foster sustainable development across the Alp¬ine region in a similar way to our National Park Authorities. It underlies and supports a lot of what the Nature Protection Department of the Alpenverein does. The Mountaineers' Villa¬ges are now an official imple¬mentation project of the Con-vention.

Some Example Villages

Mallnitz

Mallnitz, in the High Tauern, Austria's highest range and largest National Park, has been a resort at least since the 1870s. Recently, threats of massive new ski developments have been warded off. Not that skiers are unwelcome, but there are limits, and off-piste, cross-country' and snowshoeing offer superb and climate-friendly options for the winter tourist.

Mallnitz has an excellent National Park Visitor Centre, which will give you good advice about things to do whatever your interests. The best-known nearby peak is the fine Ankogel, at 3250m, with a cablecar from Mallnitz up to 2640m.

Grünau im Almtal

Grtünau im Almtal lies in the east of the Salzkammergut, Austria’s beautiful lake district, and offers a wide range of options to the eco-conscious mountaineer.

village
Modlinger Hütte in Gesäse
Photo: Ernst Kren

There is the Totes Gebirge, a large, well-known and challenging range. Its highest peak, the Gro§e Priel, is within easy reach of Grünau. There's also walking of all intermediate standards, the Almsee, a beautiful lake set in the woods, and several family-friendly nature-oriented attractions.

Johnsbach im Gesause

Johnsbach became known as "the mountaineers' university" in the 1920s. It's in the Gesäuse National Park and is surrounded by peaks with walking and climbing at all levels of difficulty. As you approach it, the striking rock massifs on either side of the river Enns make an impressive gateway to an Alpine garden, seemingly untouched by the 21st century. The rapids where the Enns has carved out a ravine through the mountains are a spectacular sight, it being one of the few significant untamed rivers in the Alps. For nature lovers there are nearly 1000 plant species to admire including 50 varieties of orchid, and over 80 types of birds.

Johnsbach is also pioneering a comprehensive approach to eco-alpinism by making car use totally superfluous. Access by train and bus is easy, and when you're there, the Gesause-Sammeltaxi provides a reasonably priced taxibus service to get you to and from anywhere in the region and your AAC membership card works to get all the discounts.

In Conclusion

The philosophy of the MVs is summarised concisely and pithily in German. My rough translation follows:

Nähe ohne Respektlösigkeit,
Genuss auf hohem Niveau,
Bewegung aus eigener Kraft,
Anregung ohne Hektik,
Belebtheit ohne Lärm.

Closeness with respect,
A high level of enjoyment,
Movement by your own power,
Challenges without rush,
Liveliness with peace and quiet.

And after researching this article my next hut-to-hut tour in Austria will definitely visit at least one of the MVs.

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