Via ferrata, vie ferrate, klettersteig - whatever!

by David Symonds

('Klettersteig' is German for the Italian 'via ferrata' which translates literally as 'iron way'. ' Vie ferrate' is the plural of 'via ferrata'.)

Above Innsbruck
photo Iolo Roberts

Aug 14 &’54;20, 2016: AV-A Basic Klettersteige Training, Innsbruck. Many categories of via ferrata are located close to Innsbruck, making it possible to have a varied and informative course. Learn more about equipment, technique and tactics.

I was interested in this course but unsure whether I would be fit enough so I emailed Gabi Pfeifer in the Innsbruck office for advice. She replied: ‘The pre-requested skill you should bring: free from giddiness, surefooted in rough terrain, some power in your arms and flexibility to enjoy the "Klettersteig" - I am sure you fulfil.' Consequently, I signed up, partly in the knowledge that two friends from my club, Red Rope, were also going.

Vie ferrate have their origins in World War One. As the Italians and Austrians fought in the passes, summits and ridges of the Dolomites they built vie ferrate to help the movement of troops and supplies.

There are now VF routes in other parts of the Alps, particularly around Innsbruck where I met up with Ian, Dermot, Humphrey and Iolo (pronounced ‘Yolo’) at Gasthof Rechenhof, on a hillside a few miles from the city centre. It's a pleasant, quiet hotel with helpful staff and good food. Robert Thaler, our instructor, was a local man with good English, the IMG qualification and a wealth of experience.

We soon felt we were in good hands, at times literally, which I discovered on the first day's ascent of the Stuibenfall in the Ötztal. 'One of the country's most spectacular natural sights, this is the Tyrol's tallest waterfall ... the rushing waters cascade 159 m over cliffs … ', to slightly misquote the Tyrol's publicity. Anyway, the five of us were going up a vertical ladder fixed to a rock face. I was in the middle of the group and found it very hard work, sweating buckets and feeling feeble. Robert effortlessly dropped down, attached a rope to my central karabiner and elevated me to a spot where I could manage on my own.

The route had been constructed to give great views of the waterfall. It took about 3 hours to get to a conveniently placed café/bar at the top, where we refuelled before walking down, mainly on a remarkable metal staircase, which gave more excellent views of the waterfall, made all the better by bright sunshine.

I found the second day fairly difficult but it wasn't the shock to the system of the opening day. I was feeling more comfortable by the third day, helped by Robert's personal and group advice. The fourth day was the lull before the storm! Robert had deliberately selected an easier route near his home village of Zirl. The path led into a steep wooded valley where cables often enabled us to 'clip on' for safety. We had a spectacular view of a train weaving its way through a tunnel in the mountains.

On the fifth day we drove a short distance to the cable car to take us to the start of the route along the 'Nordkette', the north ridge which overlooks Innsbruck. It can be seen from the city centre and looks suitably awe inspiring! Robert had assured us that we would be up to the challenge. He also told us that the start of the route, via a series of steep ladders, would be the hardest part of the day: it wasn'’t! We had not had a lot of practice on descents and as the ridge was spiky they seemed to present themselves with great frequency! Another big difference was the degree of exposure.

However, the weather was on our side, as it had been all week. By this time, Dermot and Iolo were in their element, Ian was doing well but Robert was still keeping an eye on me and Humphrey! We stopped for lunch at the highest point on the route which gave us remarkable views of Innsbruck and the Inn valley, as shown in Iolo's fab photo with the alpine chough in the foreground.

This was followed by clambering up and down more unlikely looking rock faces until, after about seven hours, we could take off our helmets and harnesses and walk down to the still busy cable car station to be whisked down to the valley and the minibus. I was slightly delirious with relief at this point.

In conclusion I would say that we enjoyed the week although I felt as if I might have left it 30 years too late! It was an exciting experience which gave me an insight into climbing which, as a plodding hill walker, I had never had before to the same extent, despite seeing the usual films and reading several accounts of altitudinous derring-do. At 488 euros it was great value in that we had half-board at the hotel and Robert’s services for the week, plus harnesses and helmets. Tough gloves are also useful.

I had been concerned about the application process but it turned out to be fairly straightforward. Gabi Pfeiffer in the Innsbruck office was very encouraging and answered queries by email very quickly. The staff in the Sektion Britannia office were also very helpful. So, if you are thinking of going on this year's equivalent course, my advice would be to sign up soon!

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