Mont Blanc 2015

by Peter Blizzard

Apparently 20,000 people a year attempt Mont Blanc. I am unsure where they get that figure from. Not that many succeeded this year, but I was one of them and at my second attempt. My first was via the "Trois Mois" route where I succumbed to AMS, and had to retreat, I summited Mont Blanc Du Tacul instead.

Coming up Le Bosses

A week later I had negotiated Le Grand Couloir without incident. Crossing it filled me with dread, after the heat wave that affected France this year had resulted in the Goüter hut being closed for several weeks. Only after I had crossed it did I realise just how serious it was, with giant pieces of rock whizzing down the couloir to the left of me in the afternoon heat amid warning cries from above. I continued to head up to the new Goüter hut where I was to experience five star creature comforts. Spending the night there was more akin to a night out in a pub as everyone drank alcohol the evening I stayed there, so I joined in.

After a 2 am start, up the mountain I went. At one point I did not think I would make it to the top. A caffeine intake from an energy gel helped, as did a rest. At 6.10 am with a bright full moon, and a temperature of -10 deg I reached the top. There were about 8 of us on the summit. The climb down was more rewarding as I was met with spectacular views.

Dome du Gouter

4810 metres conquered and, to be honest, I didn't feel a great sense of achievement as it was nothing more than a snow plod. Yet in parts it wasn't simply a mere walk. Some of the snowy ridges I'd observed ahead of me during the ascent filled me with apprehension and fear prior to climbing them.

I wonder, what 4000 metre or even higher peak will I be attempting next season?

On the summit
photos by Peter Klausan

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