A walk in the Cordillera Cantabrica

by Minna Graeber

Whilst walking the Camino Primitivo in 2014 I had come across information boards about the Gran Recorrido (Long distance path) number 109. It sounded an exciting route was very well sign-posted. What's more, it provides a route running parallel with the Camino Francez but through the spectacular mountains of northern Spain - the Cordillera Cantabrica. Anyone who has walked the Camino Francez will have been aware of these snowy heights on the right-hand horizon accompanying them for many kilometres. The highest peaks in the range are called the Picos de Europa and have as fine mountain scenery as anywhere in Europe.

Towards Llanuces

To my consternation, however, when I enquired at Spanish Tourist Information offices, they told me that it was not practicable to follow the GR 109 as a long distance route because there was nowhere to stay and no information as to facilities. As a long distance walker of many years' experience, a little thing like that wasn't going to put me off. I did a bit of research on the internet over the intervening winter and established that the longest stretch I would have to weather without any certainty of accommodation or a grocery store was going to be 4 days. I packed my usual hard rations (these largely consist of lentils, rice and packet soup) to last me five days, a bivouac and sleeping bag and set off.

In the course of my researches it became plain that the GR 71 made a logical prelude to the journey along the GR 109. This path passes through the mountainous Saja-Besaya Reserve and again runs parallel with the Camino Francez.

Horreo

So it was that, towards the end of May in 2015, I set out on a RENFE train from the village just beside Santander airport (Maliano) with a ticket to Barcena de Pie de Concha to the start of my walk.

Once I embarked on the route it became clear that there was much more in the way of accommodation and other facilities than appeared as I sat at my computer in London. It was also the case that many people were providing a very good service but were starved of customers because of the lack of information about where to stay at the end of preceding or succeeding stages of the route. I decided that my mission was not to rough it in my bivouac, but to try and ferret out the missing details and publicise it as much as possible so that the life blood of a stream of other walkers could bring success to these good, kind people and much enjoyment to those undertaking the path. Bivouacing is all very well but it isn't for everybody! I have succeeded in finding places to stay from Barcena up to Barzana which is where I finished. In 2016 I will do Barzana to Berducedo.

Asturias is famous for its great mists and uncertain weather and there were several days where I climbed endlessly only to be greeted by a complete whiteout at the top of the mountain. The information panels showing me what a great view I would have had in other weathers were not much compensation. Many were the occasions, however, when I stood in wonder at the beauty surrounding me. Often the view was of surrounding mountains against which waves of mist broke and fell back revealing and then concealing the mighty peaks. Quite frequently I could see for miles and miles through clear, sunny weather and the pasture land surrounding me was easy to navigate. It follows earth roads used by the farming community - not that you will meet much traffic on them. It is signed with the red and white stripe familiar all over Europe. At junctions it has signposts that give the distance from the last head stop and on to the next one. It is true to say that in the remoter areas it does sometimes (very infrequently) peter out and it was handy to have a GPS system with me at those points. I have written a full account of my journey on the following blog: http://cordilleracantabric.blogspt.co.uk/ This also gives details of where you can download GPS tracks and where I found them useful.

Cangas de Onis

The Spanish government site also gives a day by day account of the route and can be accessed here: http://www.magrama.gob.es/en/desarrollo-rural/temas/caminos-naturales/caminos-naturales/sector-noroeste/cordillera-cantabrica-asturias/default.aspx From this you will see that the route of the GR 109 in its entirety stretches from Panes to Santa Eulalia de Oscos. It coincides with the Camino Primitivo from Berducedo to Grandas de Salime. Unfortunately the GPX file that is posted on this site is too big for my Garmin device to handle.

If you choose to add in the preceding GR 71 there is a choice as to how to effect the join between the two routes. I took a bus between Potes (a really lovely town) and Panes. The gorge that the road runs down (Desfiladero Hermida) between these two towns would not be safe to walk. A more interesting possibility would be to follow the GR71 to its conclusion in Sotres and then carry on over the Picos de Europa to join the GR 109 at Carrena. My blog sketches in the stages you might follow in order to do this and suggests a couple of side trips. Last year I completed all the trips recommended in this section apart from the walk down from Bulnes to Puente Poncebos and on to Carrena via Arena de Cabrales.

I do hope some of you try the GR 71 and 109 as it is very lovely route and little frequented. Do write to me if you think I can offer any further advice: minnagraber@msn.com

Bee Orchids
Photos by Minna Graeber

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