Trekking in Kyrgyzstan

by Yvonne Daly

"Yvonne, have you thought of coming to Kyrgyzstan?" asked Ann. I had to confess that I didn't know where Kyrgyzstan was, but it sounded like lots of other "stans" and I expected hot, dusty deserts with extreme temperatures. But I pored over beautiful photographs of high mountains, waterfalls and amazing green scenery in what is described as the "Switzerland of Asia".

I looked at the proposed itinerary with excitement. There were 7 days of camping with horses to help carry our packs, leaving towns and villages behind to cross swift rivers and high cols. A further 11 days included travel by mini bus discovering cultural sites and further day walks. My inspiring companions, Ann, John, Philip and Sheila, were less carried away by the romantic notion of far flung adventure and more alert to the reality of sleeping at 3,000 m and walking for days often above this height. Two walking days were shortened and extra camps included by the excellent and accommodating trekking company, Ak-Sai Travel.

We flew with Turkish airlines via Istanbul to Osh. We were rescued from the chaotic baggage area, by our competent, informative and often humorous guide for the next 3 weeks. Sasha was Russian, born in Siberia, now living with his family in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. A six and a half hour, 340 km, bumpy drive took us to our first home stay at Uzgurush, ready for the next morning's early start in the Pamir Mountains. We came back here at the end of 7 days camping ... and declared it "luxury" as we were so happy to have a bed.

We set off after a 5.30 am call followed by breakfast of 2 cold greasy fried eggs, (ummy, compared with the porridge made from crushed sweet corn or rice we had on other mornings). Serious uphill began almost immediately. The walk was long, steep and hot, a pattern to be repeated almost each day but with frequently changing scenery.

The trek from Ak-tash camp at 2,900m over a pass at 3,774m and down into the Dzhalgychy gorge and our next camp at 3,100m was particularly stunning. We crossed from the zigzag paths amongst the barren steep, rocky slopes to be greeted by layers of razor sharp ridges, interspersed with tall peaks and glaciers of the Turkestan mountain range. The carcase of an unfortunate pack horse lay sprawled on the screes below us.

Ann and John at 4,400m
Photo by Sheila Freake

During our trek we met very few people: 3 or 4 nomadic families, lovely smiling people living in what to me appeared difficult conditions, a few shepherds on horseback herding their fat bottomed sheep and some Kyrgyzstan "tourists"!

Every camp was by a river with showers taken in waterfalls. One night at 3,680m we experienced wild camping at its best. It was hard to breathe but I sat on a rock, listening to the rush of the river, watching horses and donkeys chasing and playing. All around were purple geraniums, edelweiss and tiny gentians bathed in a glorious sunset.

Crossing the river
Photo by Ann Clarke

We had to cross a swollen river on horseback one at a time. As we struggled to reach yet another high pass, the snowy mountains cast off stones or ice, sounding like bullets. The higher we went the more peaks came into view and, once we sat on the Ak Tubek pass at 4,400m, it felt as though we could reach out and touch so many of the summits. Following the glacial river we made the long but beautiful flower-covered walk out of the valley. As we stopped to take pictures of unusual and delicate flowers, we noticed vultures grouping in the air with the dead horse seen the previous day as their destination.

Another day, Sasha pointed out a most amazing sight of griffon vultures sitting on a high ridge with their wings half open, as if wearing a cloak. Their wing span can reach nearly 3m and it's easy to see why they have inspired many a creative novel.

The Yurt camp
Photo by John Vernon

In fairness, the 11 days of our cultural tour that followed could never have matched the awesomeness of the trek, even though it included visiting ancient monuments, seeing remnants of the Soviet days, understanding some Kyrgyzstan history and swimming in Issyk-Kul Lake, the second largest alpine lake after Titicaca. We slept in homestays and yurts in wild and wonderful places. We had a Russian sauna at the remote Tash Rabat camp (next stop China). We were well fed throughout, although I'm not expecting to see a cookery book with "best dishes from Kyrgyzstan" anytime soon.

Villages we passed through supported shipping containers with cut out windows for general stores, melon stalls, and garages to help maintain the population of ancient cars. Donkeys and carts shared the same routes. In 3 weeks of travel, we never did find a post office or box for John's cards. This small country is much bigger than it looks on the map, with its many complicated and intricate mountains. Tarmac is in short supply in Kyrgyzstan which makes it a challenge to use motorised transport and cover great distances.

The success of this trek was due to the planning before we went, Ann's leadership and coordination of our ideas, the helpfulness of Wild Frontiers, a brilliant guide and, in my opinion, the good company and the contributions made by each of the group.

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