Walking the Karnische Höhenweg

The Peace Path 1915 - 2015

by Iolo Roberts

A group of 13 of us gathered at Innsbruck station on Sunday morning 23 August 2015 on the first day of the start of the AAC(UK) Hut Tour along the Karnische Höhenweg on the Austrian/Italian border. During the tour, we would mainly be following the long distance path 403, walking along a long ridge which forms the border between Austria and Italy which we criss-crossed numerous times. We had splendid limestone scenery and spectacular views. Furthermore, since the ridge formed the front line between Austro-Hungarian and Italian forces during the First World War we came across numerous relics from that period. Some of us also managed to find time to ascend the summit of Mount Peralba (2964m)

We were a varied group comprising Alan, Janet, Tim, Ruth and Ros who had been on trips with the Club before; Alquin from Canada and Cliff from Australia together with Andy, Elizabeth and Ian who were on their first overseas trip with the AAC(UK) and myself who had recently joined the Club. Our tour leaders were Peter and Frances.

We started walking from Leckfeldalm towards the Sillianer Hütte where we would be staying for our first night. The weather was fine but as soon as we started climbing, some of us started feeling slightly breathless, not surprising really since we were starting from a height of 1925m.

We were greeted at the Sillianer Hütte by three representatives from ÔAV Sektion Sillian, who had come up to the hut to meet our group and thank the AAC(UK) for our 2014 Hut Fund donation which enabled them to carry out repairs to the hut following damage in the 2013/14 winter.

The many relics from the First World War included barracks at Hochalpl and we marvelled at how much effort had gone into their construction at such remote and high altitude locations. One particular moment stands out, on a misty and cloudy first day, when we came upon a small cemetery for Austrian troops near Hochgräntensee. At 2429m this is the highest military cemetery in Central Europe and it brought home the reality of warfare in the cold winters.

Thankfully the sun came out next day and, as the week progressed, it became hotter and hotter. Another unexpected bonus for us was Alquin's extensive knowledge of geology and during the tour he was able to supply us with much interesting information on the different rocks we saw, their importance and origins. One of the most memorable days of the trip was the 'Long Day' on the Wednesday. During dinner the previous night at the Neue Porze Hütte, Peter and Frances had made it clear that this would be a long one, 9-10 hours (12 for the slow group) with 1400m ascent and descent, so we had an early start. We set off with the sun shining and climbed upwards looking down to the valleys below us filled with mist. We had good weather and walking along the ridge we could appreciate the fantastic views around us. About half way we had to negotiate ladders and chains to help us climb a particular steep section. Three of us made a slight detour to climb up Hochspitz (2580m).

After a long day we eventually descended towards the next hut which we could see across the valley. Even better, our map showed that there was a contour path which would take us directly towards it rather than having to drop down into the valley and climb up again. However the path proved to be a difficult one to negotiate with some 'interesting' rope protected passages, steep sections, crossing streams, very muddy in parts and quite an ordeal at the end of a long day. Our eventual arrival at Hochweiësteinhaus for a two night stay and a large beer was therefore very welcoming.

Sadly, a week after we had set off, we had to make our way down from the mountains. After setting off from Wolayerseehütte, we took the opportunity on our way out to climb Rauchkofel (2460m) where we had a final opportunity to marvel at the magnificent views of the surrounding mountains including snow covered Venediger in the distance. We finished the trip at the Gasthof Untere Valentinalm where we spent our final night, had an excellent last supper and took the opportunity to thank our tour leaders, Peter and Frances, before returning to Innsbruck.

It was a brilliant trip along a magnificent ridge with fantastic views, interesting sights and mainly excellent weather. Many thanks to Peter and Frances for all their hard work, patience and leading us so well and to my fellow walkers for their friendship and companionship along the way.

Ascending Scheibier
Photo by Frances Hinds

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